Friday, May 16, 2008

Weekend viewings

Here' s two viewings worth visiting this weekend if you are in Phnom Penh. On Saturday night the film Bombhunters will get an airing (7pm) at the Meta House on Street 264. Its a film by Skye Fitzgerald that documents the effects of UXO (unexploded ordnance) on the Cambodian people, both within their homeland and in the US, particularly villagers' efforts throughout rural Cambodia as they seek out UXO and attempt to render it safe for sale to the scrap metal industry in order to survive. Read more about the film here. Also on Saturday, an exhibition titled The Holy Faces of Angkor will open at the Cambodian-Japanese Co-operation Center at the Royal University of Phnom Penh, along the airport road. Photos by Japanese freelance snapper Baku Saito, who has been taking pictures of the face towers of Angkor since 1994, will be on show until 31 May. He's produced photographic books on the Bayon and Banteay Chhmar, specializing on recording the enigmatic faces that adorn these temples.
A Bayon face and nun from my own 1998 photo-album

Visiting friends

Vy and yours truly
The King's Birthday public holiday brought some friends into Phnom Penh. Whilst hordes of city dwellers headed down to Sihanoukville for a bit of R&R, Vy swam against the tide to spend a couple of days in Phnom Penh. She works in the hotel industry at the plushest hotel on the south coast though her first port of call in the city was the new Kentucky Fried Chicken shop on Monivong Boulevard! Also calling into see me were Rachel Madden, on a whistle-stop visit from England, accompanied by her guide Sak, my very good friend from Battambang. It was Rachel who hosted Sak's recent visit to England and he was still smiling broadly with memories from his trip. Right on cue, it snowed on his first morning in England, just one of many new experiences he enjoyed on his two-week visit.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

A smile goes a long way

Humour helps a rare bird survive: Conservationists" gentle engagement with locals boosts the prospects for the Bengal Florican - by David Montero (The Christian Science Monitor)

For Sum Song Zoning, a community officer with the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) of Cambodia, the secret to conservation is a good sense of humor. His audience: monks and farmers, housewives with screaming babies – each with a skeptical look that deepened as the morning heat rose. His subject: the Bengal Florican, an endangered bird few have ever heard of, let alone seen. His task: to convince the lean-looking villagers that, should they ever come across the bird, a hefty five-pounder, it is better to save it than to eat it. By all accounts, he succeeded wonderfully. There were cheers as he took playful jabs at a monk and teased two bemused old ladies, using humor to impart the value of the bird. Diagrams and posters were marshaled to explain that, as much as they look alike, Bengal Florican eggs are not duck eggs and should be left alone. During the quiz at the end, the 30 or so participants raised their hands with gleeful eagerness, suggesting that, whether or not they ever saw the bird, they were ready to protect it. “Ten years ago, people didn’t understand the importance of the bird,” says Zoning. “Now they understand that it’s something special for Cambodia.”

Village by village, and province by province, this simple interaction is helping to save the Bengal Florican, one of the world’s rarest birds, by directly engaging the communities that dwell in the bird’s habitat. And in so doing, this approach is presenting a unique model of community-based conservation, observers and participants say. “This is a model of conservation between communities and conservationists,” says Robert van Zalinge, a field technical adviser for the WCS. “In remote regions, protected areas are set up just based on government decisions, and that is enforced. But here, in an area of high human population, you have a much larger community interface than any other protected area in Cambodia.” For bird enthusiasts, the Bengal Florican is prized for its rarity, being native to only three countries in the world: Cambodia, India, and Nepal. Today there are believed to be roughly 1,300 left in the world, with about 800 to 900 in the flood plains of Cambodia’s Tonle Sap Lake, the largest freshwater body in Southeast Asia, according to research conducted by WCS. To scientists, the bird is unique for its elaborate mating ritual, or display: the otherwise secretive males make hopping loops in the sky, hoping to attract female attention with their striking presence – black bodies set against glaring white wings. “They’re very difficult to see. But when they display, the male sort of advertises its territory, trying to attract females,” says Lotty Packman, a doctoral student from England who is assisting the WCS to track and tag the birds. For the people in these stark grasslands, though, where scarcity is a way of life, the bird is a potential source of income or food. By the 1990s, hunting had significantly diminished its numbers. Today the bird faces an even greater threat: the grasslands of the Tonle Sap, which used to stretch for hundreds of miles, are quickly diminishing as private companies convert land into large-scale rice-farming operations. Almost 30 percent of the grasslands were lost in 30 months from 2005 to 2007, warns a recent report by the WCS. “At that rate, in five to 10 years, the grasslands could be gone and the Florican extinct,” says Mr. Van Zalinge.

To prevent that, conservationists worked with the provincial governments in the flood-plain area to devise a solution: an Integrated Farming and Biodiversity Area – a protected area that outlaws large-scale dry rice farming, which damages the Florican’s habitat, but allows farmers to continue traditional methods of deep-water rice farming. The latter’s use of grazing and burning supports the Florican by preventing the growth of scrub that destroy the grass patches favored by the birds. In 2006, a provincial government decree designated 135 square miles of the flood plain a protected area, preserving roughly half of the Bengal Florican population here. So far, the provincial governments have stopped at least two large-scale dry rice projects, according the WCS, suggesting the firm commitment of local authorities. What makes the project novel is also the level of community involvement. As many as 20 times a month, community officer Zoning and others gather several dozen people in towns throughout the Tonle Sap flood plain. Men and women, young and old: Their participation has helped the Bengal Florican return, like the rest of Cambodia, from a devastating past. It is too early to say how successful the protected areas have been in increasing the overall population of Cambodia’s Bengal Florican. For now, project administrators say, success means reaching people like Meach Komhan, a farmer in the district of Baray, part of the flood-plain area. “I had never heard of the bird before,” he says, after listening to Zoning’s presentation. “I really support the conservation, because the bird is useful for Cambodian people as a natural resource. We don’t want to lose it in the future.”

The pulse of UK reggae

Grizzly Nisbett
I'm always keen to read articles on my favourite reggae band Steel Pulse in the press and this one from Bobby Tanzilo in Milwaukee, USA even used one of my own pictures of Grizzly Nisbett, the band's former drummer, who I interviewed a few years ago. Read my interview here. For the article itself, see below.

The pulse of UK reggae by Bobby Tanzilo (OnMilwaukee.com)
If you saw me driving to work today, you likely heard me singing along to Steel Pulse's 1982 'True Democracy,' which I extracted from the shelf this morning for the first time in many, many years. The news that the band comes to Summerfest this year - on the The Potawatomi Bingo Casino Stage & Pavilion with Miller High Life and OnMilwaukee.com - led me back to this record that was among my favorites when I was 15 and 16. I was amazed that I could remember not only every word, every drum fill, every guitar line, but also the vocal ad libs. I guess I listened to it more than a few times. Along with the band's 1978 debut, 'Handsworth Revolution,' it is an absolute classic U.K. reggae disc (ask me and I'll bore you with the others, too) and pretty high up on the list of all reggae records (we snobs make a distinction between music from Jamaica and from everywhere else).

'True Democracy' was exciting and alive when it was released. It was a bridge between rock and reggae with chicken scratch guitars, incendiary drumming and on-the-money harmonies combined with great songwriting. It also arrived at a definitive time for me. I was teaching myself to play the bass and 'True Democracy,' along with the other great records of the moment - Black Uhuru's 'Red,' Bob Marley & The Wailers' 'Uprising' and Aswad's 'New Chapter in Dub,' among them - were the best teachers a kid could ask for. They were all fueled by bass runs that were snaky and full of finesse, but were also repeated many times, allowing me to pick out the notes (and I say "pick," but I certainly did NOT use a pick, thank you very much!). The disc also helped me join my school's Jamaican community - this was Brooklyn remember - at least as an honorary member. Standing in line in the cafeteria listening to 'True Democracy' in my Walkman (remember those?!), the Jamaican kid in line behind me somehow realized or suspected that we were listening to the same record. We were and I was in.

Then there was that improbable column of dreads sported by singer and guitarist David Hinds on the cover of the U.S. release. It seemed amazingly tall and revolutionary - like a big middle finger to the people that still fought against dreadlocks (yes, there was a time when dreads were not a hip trend and kids got kicked out of their houses for sporting them) - and we had no idea just how it would continued to taunt gravity before it fell over and Hinds started tying it up 'round itself. I've seen Steel Pulse a number of times since then and the band is always killer live. Although, I don't hesitate to say that once drummer Steve 'Grizzly' Nisbett left the band, the thumping heart of Steel Pulse was gone even if the brain and the body was still alive. But go buy 'True Democracy' and feel the fire. Then go see Steel Pulse and I guarantee you that - Grizzly or no Grizzly (certainly no Grizzly, sadly, because he's retired) - Hinds and company will put on a stellar show.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Colonial-style

In need of some love and affection, the colonial mansion bought by the FCC group
There are some very attractive French colonial-style buildings dotted around Phnom Penh. A few books have been published that demonstrate the best examples and there's even a walking/cyclo tour of the capital that is organized by architecture fans to show off these beautiful edifices to interested visitors. One such building, although suffering from neglect and a lack of paint is the building featured here. It sits opposite the National Museum and made the news headlines here the other day when it was alleged that it was part of a political bribe a few years ago and has now been sold off to the FCC group who will turn it into a luxury hotel. It was built in 1930 and its last occupants were the police who protect the Royal Place nearby. Expect it to look shiny and bright fairly soon, like the UNESCO building, another colonial-style building that has been given the love and attention it deserves. The UNESCO headquarters is from the same era and lies fifty metres along the same block of buildings. Link: Architecture Tours. The photos managed to load two days after I blogged this post. Sorry to keep you waiting!

A close-up view of the 1930's colonial-style mansion near the Royal Palace
The brightly-painted renovated UNESCO mansion a few doors away from the FCC building

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Last of the face towers

The west face of tower 18 at Banteay Chhmar
The trademark face towers of Banteay Chhmar are a big attraction for visitors and face tower 18, located in the first enclosure, is the only tower with all four faces still in situ. On all of the other towers inside the main complex, at least one face has collapsed. So face tower 18 is unique and to highlight that, I have posted all the faces here together with longer distance shots to put them into context. The tower is topped off with a lotus motif but does not have any praying figures between the faces as other towers have. Though built mainly in the early 13th century under the kingship of Jayavarman VII, its believed the temple was constructed over a long period of time, hence there are subtle differences in the building techniques used. The only face tower I haven't posted photos of are the two faces on tower 73. But don't think that the face towers in the main complex are the only ones to be found at Banteay Chhmar. There are another 4 satellite temples in the surrounding fields and forest that also boast large face towers and are well worth seeking out if you have time. Believe me when I say that you will be rewarded by their location and setting, having visited the satellite temples three years ago. On my latest visit, we simply didn't have enough time.
Tower 18 at Banteay Chhmar with the west and south faces
The south face of tower 18
Tower 18 showing the south face
The east face of tower 18 at Banteay Chhmar
The foliage and trees are encroaching on the east face of tower 18
The north face of tower 18 is in danger of collapse
Tower 18's north face is in a perilous state
A book that is dedicated to the face towers at this temple was published in 2005 by Noto Publishers in Japan and is called The Face Towers of Banteay Chmar. It's a collection of colour and black & white photos by Baku Saito, with text by Olivier Cunin. It includes all the face towers at the main complex, those at the satellite temples as well as the faces to be found at Preah Khan of Kompong Svay. If you love the enigmatic faces at Banteay Chhmar, you'll love this book.

Titbits from PP

Like everyone, I have read with distress about the devastating natural disasters that have exploded onto the peoples of Burma and China over the last few days. Information about both disasters has been sketchy so far but what we've seen and heard clearly indicate catastrophes of major-scale proportions. The failure of the Burmese authorities to allow aid and logistic teams into the country is simply bonkers, but of no surprise at all, as they instead concentrate on a referendum for a new constitution aimed at strengthening the military control over the Burmese people. I am ever thankful that Cambodia lies in between its neighbours and as such is shielded from such natural disasters (famous last words?). In a small-scale show of solidarity, I visited one of only two Burmese restaurants in Phnom Penh on Saturday, the Irrawaddi on street 344, for my lunch - nice people.
The Cambodian Premier League football season has recently kicked off and I am still scrabbling around trying to get the fixture list so I can get along to the Olympic Stadium to watch a few games. I'm currently suffering severe starvation for live football since my relocation to Cambodia. The end of the English Premiership season last weekend - which I watched on multi-screens at The Gym bar - doesn't exactly help either. I'm told the Cambodian League games are played on Saturday & Sunday and Wednesday but trying to locate a fixture list has so far proved impossible. However there is light on the horizon. The Cambodian National team has three games at home later this month as part of the Asian Football Confederation Challenge Cup, a tournament for emerging football nations. Cambodia will play Palestine on 24 May, Nepal on 26 May and Macau on 28 May, with all three games at the Olympic Stadium in Phnom Penh. The winner of this mini-group will go forward to compete in the 8-team Challenge Cup finals in India in July and August. Even I should be able to attend at least one of the games to satisfy my craving for live football.
I was very pleased to get a note from the author Milton Osborne a couple of days ago, who thanked me for my coverage of his recent book launch in Phnom Penh. He also mentioned a further delay of the arrival at Monument Books of his new book, Phnom Penh - A Cultural and Literary History. I'm still reading the book and will review it very soon.
My trip to Laos - did I mention it? - has been postponed for the time being. I was due to spend more than two weeks travelling from north to south in Laos from the end of this week, getting my first glimpse of the country and its people, but a lack of experienced staff in the office has meant I will now re-schedule my trip until June or July. A pity as I was looking forward to it, but it will happen, just later rather than sooner.
Last and certainly least, the closing date for registering political parties and their candidates for the 27 July general election here in Cambodia has passed. In all, 12 parties have registered, half of the number from the 2003 general election, where CPP won control with 73 seats out of 123. Its already dominating the headlines over here with dirty tricks much in evidence from all quarters. I expect it to get a lot worse as election day draws closer.
Whoops, I forgot to mention its the Cambodian King's birthday tomorrow - King Sihamoni will be 55 - and today is the first of a 3-day public holiday. However, I work in tourism so public holidays here mean diddly-squat. To celebrate his birthday, the face of the King will now appear on a new 20,000 riel note (worth $5.5) , printed by the National Bank.

Monday, May 12, 2008

Rahu bas-reliefs

A fight to the death with Bharata Rahu on this relief at the western gallery at Banteay Chhmar
Banteay Chhmar is also famous for its Bayon-style bas-reliefs along its outer gallery, though existing in two registers, rather than the four as at the Bayon. The reliefs present a mix of historic events with religious and mythological themes though large chunks of the gallery has fallen foul to time and thieves. The most striking example of this was the theft of five portions of the wall in 1997 which included the large, multi-armed Avalokiteshvaras. Only two remain in place today. Along the gallery wall are a series of rich iconographic scenes and the two featured here involve the mythical monster Bharata Rahu. Located in the southern part of the western gallery near the western gopura 153, the picture above depicts a large man trying to kill the rebellious Bharata Rahu, in a forest setting with rhinoceros and monkeys present. The man is believed to be Prince Shrindrakumara and in the process he saves the royal palace of Yashovarman. Believe it if you will. In the bottom photo, a monstrously large figure with the head of a lion (though it looks like Rahu to me) and crawling on the ground, is just about to devour a Cham, an ox and his chariot of boxes arranged in a pyramid. This relief is the only known Rahu relief in Cambodia. Normally Rahu, who stole a drop of amrita at the Churning of the Ocean of Milk and achieved immortality, is seen swallowing the sun and the moon and creating eclipses. Also in Khmer folklore, the term Rahu often refers to the grimacing face of a kala and can be seen on many lintels.
A monster, Rahu(?) swallows a beast and is soon to devour a Cham pulling a chariot

Sunday, May 11, 2008

Making faces

The north face of tower 64 at Banteay Chhmar
Tower 64 at Banteay Chhmar is located in the western complex at the site and experts suggest its function was as a library, crowned by a lotus and containing praying figures in each corner and above the faces, though only three faces now survive. Banteay Chhmar itself is only slightly smaller than the city of Angkor Thom and the main complex is surrounded by a moat, though the original enclosure also contains a baray and nine other temples, as well as a dharmasala rest-house. The main complex covers an area of five hectares bounded by a rectangular gallery, which is richly decorated in carving. It was built in the early 13th century as a funerary temple for Jayavarman VII's son. Today the temple is a veritable jumble of ruins and the easiest way of moving around is usually on gallery roofs and over the larger piles of collapsed stone. This provides a good opportunity to photograph the face towers and pediments at close range.
Above: Tower 64 was originally a library located in the western complex of Banteay Chhmar
Above: This picture of the west face of tower 64 shows the praying figures above the face and to the left
The enigmatic smile of the west face of tower 64
A full frontal view of tower 64's north face
The east face at tower 64 is hard to distinguish and looks a candidate for collapse in the future

Faces and Tower 15 revealed

The west face of tower 15 at Banteay Chhmar and the profile of the south face (right of the photo)
In the first central enclosure at Banteay Chhmar there are three face towers still in place, and tower 15 is one of these. It has three faces still in situ, with their trademark enigmatic smile and closed eyelids in place. There is no definitive conclusion on who these faces represent. They have been attributed to Brahma, Siva, Avalokitesvara and Buddha as well as the great builder Jayavarman VII himself, or to the mixed traits of all or some of the former. The question remains open still today. The faces themselves appeared during the Bayon period of temple construction, between 1177-1230, and more precisely the latter half of that period. They can be found at Angkor of course, at the Bayon, Angkor Thom entrance gates, Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei and Ta Som. They also appear in the provincial setting of Preah Khan of Kompong Svay, and here at Banteay Chhmar. For me they have always been one of the most fascinating aspects of Khmer sculpture.
Half profile of the south face of tower 15 at Banteay Chhmar
The smiling south face of tower 15
The east face of tower 15 and profile of the south face (to left of photo)
A crooked smile for the east face of tower 15

Facing danger

The sole remaining face on tower 70 at Banteay Chhmar faces south
The magnificent face towers at Banteay Chhmar are in a precarious state. This was amply demonstrated in 2004 when tower 73 and its two remaining faces fell to the floor of the temple. Other towers are in severe danger too. One such tower is the one shown here, tower 70, the southwest corner tower of the western complex at the site. There is only one face remaining on tower 70 and as you can see it is already ill-defined and lacks the clarity of most of the other faces on show at Banteay Chhmar. The tower itself has already suffered much collapse and looks unsteady on its remaining feet. In total there are 13 faces still to be seen at the temple on five towers. There is argument amongst the experts on the original number of face towers at the site, though some hypothesise that as many as 45 may have existed if you include the satellite temples that surround the main complex. I will reveal more of the faces in additional posts but I wanted to highlight that Banteay Chhmar is a temple in great danger. It has been plundered without restraint over many years, and this has left the remaining structure in imminent danger. Without a serious attempt to halt and reverse this, a magnificent temple and its enigmatic faces may be in danger of being lost forever.
A look at the precarious corner tower that is tower 70 at Banteay Chhmar

Saturday, May 10, 2008

The eastern gopura at Banteay Chhmar

There's a lot to see at Banteay Chhmar so be prepared for a few more postings from this massive temple site in northwest Cambodia. I spent a little over an hour there two weeks ago and tried to capture as many of the notable features as possible. I've been there before and will certainly return again - there's more than enough to keep me occupied for a few days at least. As much of the temple's rich vein of carvings lie in pieces on the floor as are still in situ, so there's lots of opportunities to uncover a gem or two in a quiet corner if you have time on your hands. My future posts will focus on the temple's magnificent bas-reliefs and face towers. These pictures were taken in and around the eastern entrance gopura to the temple.
Above: One of a series of lions and garudas with arms aloft to support the celestial realm in the area of the broken eastern gopura
Above: A good example of the precarious nature of much of Banteay Chhmar as wooden supports keep this interesting pediment - the slaying of Shishupala with Krishna and rishis also present - in the eastern pavilion
The Hall of Dancers is another section in a precarious state. This frieze of female dancers with arms raised also resides in the eastern pavilion and has looked like this since my first visit to Banteay Chhmar seven years ago
Two more heavenly maidens or devatas in traditional pose holding lotus flowers on the walls of Banteay Chhmar

On the run at Chhmar

More from my recent visit to Banteay Chhmar. I had very little time at the temple due to a late arrival and same day departure for Siem Reap. In effect, I had an hour to scramble across the ruins and seek out as much iconography and carving as I could find, as well as the temple's trademark face towers which I will post in the next day or two.
Above: These roof finials are located inside the second enclosure of Banteay Chhmar and show small Buddha figures in meditation
The pediment above shows a bodhisattva seated on a low plinth with two worshippers at his side, over a row of five remaining figures seated in anjali pose
A standing headless Lokeshvara above worshippers and attendants is badly eroded
Above: This is a very good example of Buddha seated on a naga and protected by its expanded hood. He is sat on a high plinth and below him is a prostrated king, flanked by female attendants with fans and parasols. This pediment is located inside tower 18
Above: This reconstructed pediment lies immediately inside the eastern entrance and depicts two rows of worshippers, twenty-three in total, below what appears to be a lively depiction of Krishna though much of the upper register is missing

Friday, May 9, 2008

Valmiki and Brahma

The pediment described below with Valmiki and Brahma underneath the body of a naga
One of the most famous and frequently photographed scenes at Banteay Chhmar is from a low pediment in the eastern pavilion and one of the first carvings you encounter on your visit to this marvellous temple. It's one of the opening visual narratives from the Ramayana story, a sacred Hindu text of the story of Rama and Sita, that in Cambodia is called the Reamker. The story depicted on this pediment is of the sage Valmiki, who composed the epic poem, and who was in the forest looking for somewhere to bathe. Whilst he was admiring a pair of mating cranes, a tribal hunter killed the male bird with an arrow - which you can see in the neck of the bird - and which caused the sage to pour his emotions into his poem. He was then visited by Brahma, who asked Valmiki to write the full story of Rama for all to read. Essentially, that's the story of this carving. The tribal hunter is on the right holding bow and arrows. At the centre is Brahma with four heads and next to him, but with his face disfigured, is Valmiki holding a page of his manuscript. To the far left is a harp player who also appears in other pediments at the temple, adding music to the narration. The pediment is famous for the comparison made to older photos of the same scene when the carving was in pristine condition. A perfect example of the damage done by temple thieves at Banteay Chhmar and so many other outlying temples. My eternal thanks to Vittorio Roveda and his Images of the Gods book for bringing the iconography of this and other temples to my attention, and likewise, yours.
The disfiguring of Valmiki is often used as an example of what has happened to the carvings at many temples, as there is a photograph by Henri Marchal in 1955 that shows the figure in all its glory

Pediments in close up

The gigantic temple of Banteay Chhmar, lying in a little-visited corner of northwest Cambodia, has much to reward the visitor who makes the effort to get there. I could literally spend days there scrambling amongst the ruins, identifying the carvings and iconography that are still in situ as well as the pediments and lintels that lie in broken pieces on the ground. And of course, it's been widely reported how the temple suffered at the hands of thieves in the late 90s, who stole large portions of its walls containing glorious reliefs. Here are two examples of pediment reliefs that are still in situ though one clearly shows the results of temple theft that has plagued the outer-lying temples of the former Angkor empire.
Location of pediment with 8-armed Lokeshvara
Above is a pediment on the eastern face of tower 8 that depicts the Lokeshvara with eight arms standing on a plinth supported by three lions. Worshippers surround the feet of the Lokeshvara in an attitude of anjali, with their hands clasped together in front of their chests, palms joined in prayer. The block of sandstone containing the face has been crudely removed, as has the lintel that should be sat underneath the pediment. The scene is in more detail below.
Lokeshvara with 8 arms and worshippers
Well-preserved Buddha in meditation with worshippers and lintel
Above & below. This busy well-preserved pediment, with a multitude of figures, can be found on the western side of the corner pavilion 28. The crowned Buddha is in meditation and is seated on a plinth, with two monks at his side over a row of seven worshippers. Two apsaras are floating hear his head. The worn lintel underneath shows Buddha being held aloft over a kala.
Detail of the Buddha in meditation

Thursday, May 8, 2008

It's so easy by eBay

Shrinkwrapped copies of the two new CD releases from Roy Hill arrived yesterday, direct from Roy who is feeling a bit sorry for himself after an accident left him with a painful shoulder injury in leafy Sevenoaks in Kent. Hello Sailor is an album of 12 original songs recorded in the mid-70s before the release of his first and only solo album, Roy Hill, in 1978. They are a mixture of acoustic demos and tracks recorded with his Cheltenham friends, The Strolling Players. As the blurb deftly puts it - although sometimes primitive in execution these recordings are charged with the writer-performer's manifest eccentricities, by turns playful, waspish and melancholy. I couldn't agree more. CD number two is Fun With Dave, another twelve tracks, this time from 1983-84 and produced with the aid of David Richards, who later worked with Queen, David Bowie and Michael Jackson, whilst Roy went onto sell massage machines for a living! Such is life. Nevertheless the tracks are at last seeing the light of day and are a must have in my book.
You can purchase the CD's via eBay at Hello Sailor and Fun With Dave. Roy is currently remastering his solo album, produced by Gus Dudgeon in 1978, for a second release very soon, alongwith two Cry No More CDs, Cry No More and Live at the Mulberry Tree. Find out all you ever wanted to know about Roy here.

A dream comes true

The work of author Alan Lightman and his Harpswell Foundation in Cambodia is well worth shouting about. Hence I'm happy to post this article by Donna Coveny of MIT News in Massachusetts, USA.

A dream comes true

The inauguration this week of a
new mosque in the Cambodian village of Tramung Chrum will represent a dream come true for residents of the Muslim enclave in the overwhelmingly Buddhist country. That dream was brought to life by Alan Lightman, MIT physicist and writer who a decade or so ago, with his wife, Jeanne, made a pact to turn their energies toward humanitarian pursuits. Without a firm direction or funding, they formed the nonprofit Harpswell Foundation in 1999. Within a few years, Lightman, Jeanne and their daughter, Elyse, would attend the opening of a school built in an impoverished village 50 miles from Phnom Penh, build and manage a women's dorm and leadership center in Phnom Penh and, finally, build the new mosque in Tramung Chrum. Lightman has been entranced by science and the arts from an early age. Appointed professor of science and writing and senior lecturer in physics at MIT in 1989, he went on to head the Program in Writing and Humanistic Studies from 1991 to 1997 and helped found the Catalyst Collaborative, a collaboration between MIT and the Underground Railway Theatre of Boston in 2004. His novel, "Einstein's Dreams," published in 1993, was an international bestseller and has been translated into 30 languages.

Professor Lightman first heard of Tramung Chrum, a tiny Muslim village in Cambodia, in 2003 from the Rev. Fred Lipp. Lipp, who had been working to keep young girls in school in Cambodia with his own foundation, told Alan of a village whose only school had a roof of palm fronds. Lightman's imagination was kindled and in December of that year he and daughter Elyse accompanied Lipp to Cambodia. What they found was a village of about 500 people - mostly Muslim Chams, one of Cambodia's ethnic minorities. With neither running water nor electricity, the local economy was based on subsistence farming and menial labor. "We were overwhelmed with emotion," Lightman says softly, his eyes lighting at the memory. "These people had gone through tremendous suffering since the mid-1970s and the genocide perpetrated by the Khmer Rouge, and in spite of that they had hope and resilience. "The best expression of that hope for the future," he says, "was when we arrived, mothers holding babies came up and asked for our help to build a school. They had nothing, lived in abject poverty, but wanted a school, a future. We were so moved." Funded by donations from family and friends, the school was finished in the summer of 2005. Where a roof of palm fronds had been now stands a concrete-and-steel-girder school.

The impetus for his next project came from Veasna Chea, a native of Tramung Chrum who had made it through law school in Phnom Penh by living with three female classmates in the space on the mud floor beneath the school for four years. Male students could live in the Buddhist temples, but in the gritty capital, there were few, if any, safe places for women to stay, so few women attended college. Once again, he took on the challenge, found contractors and built the dormitory and leadership center. But that was only the beginning. Lightman reckons, "One-third of my waking hours I spend on Cambodia daily." From sleeping security guards to the students' need for medical procedures, funds for upkeep, teachers, food and all life's issues, Lightman is the go-to guy. His daily electronic communications with the dorm represent the sole exception to Lightman's personal ban on using e-mail. He is presently trying to raise a $500,000 endowment to keep the dorm and all it offers up and running in the future.

As he busied himself managing the dorm and leadership center, the villagers of Tramung Chrum, thrilled with their school, asked him to build a mosque. To Lightman, health care seemed a more compelling need, but he understood that it had to be what the entire village wanted. So he asked the men and women of the village to choose five representatives each, and he met with the two groups separately. The men wanted a mosque, the women wanted health care. A meeting was convened to give the 10 representatives the opportunity to address the whole village and then vote on which project to take forward. After a civil discussion, all the men and three women voted for the mosque. The reason? The mosque represented their spiritual health, which they considered more important than their physical health. Lightman recognized that the cultural value and tradition was different than his own and that the social fabric of the community depended on the mosque. "They are so proud," he says, "so deeply happy with this mosque." Link: harpswellfoundation

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Fourth arrest in Howes murder case

There's been another development in the Christopher Howes murder case today with the news that a 4th former Khmer Rouge soldier, Sin Dorn, was arrested Friday in the former Khmer Rouge stronghold of Anlong Veng in northern Cambodia and is being held in Phnom Penh pending a trial date, which has still to be fixed. The charges against Sin Dorn, 52, are premeditated murder of Howes (pictured above) and his Cambodian translator Houn Hourth as well as illegal confinement of both men and with being a member of rebel forces. The British de-miner from Bristol and his colleague were abducted and killed a few days later in March 1996. In a surprise development in November last year, three other former communist rebels, mastermind Khem Nguon, Loch Mao, and Chep Cheat, were arrested and charged over the kidnapping and murder of Howes and Hourth. Khem Nguon, who served as number 2 to the notorious one-legged KR commander Ta Mok, had defected from the KR to join the Cambodian armed forces where he was awarded the rank of brigadier-general in the defence ministry. The others became civil servants. All four men face 20 years in prison for premeditated murder and 10 years for illegal confinement if convicted. Families of the victims filed the original complaints in the Siem Reap provincial court, but long delays forced the transfer of the cases to the Phnom Penh Municipal Court and we now await the start of the trial.
For more on Christopher Howes, please visit my websi
te
here.

Welcome to Banteay Chhmar

The welcome sign at Banteay Chhma(r) - causing confusion as the varied spelling of the last word can give the temple name two different meanings
Banteay Chhmar is a massive temple site, lying in northwest Cambodia, about two hours north of Sisophon, the main town you encounter upon arriving in the country from Thailand. Alternatively you can take the nightmare that is Route 6 from Siem Reap - though depending on the weather and the state of the road - it's crap at the moment - it will take anything between 2-3 hours on what should be Cambodia's premier highway, but isn't. Anyway, back to the temple of Banteay Chhmar. These photos give you a glimpse on what to see upon arrival at the site, later posts will include more of the iconography, carvings and face towers. Its one of my favourite temples with its multitude of carvings, many of which are underfoot as you scamper across the fallen blocks of sandstone. More on Banteay Chhmar to come.
An original demon guardian at the eastern entrance to the temple
Part of the moat outside the outer boundary wall, used by the locals for buffalo-washing!
A false window and devata at the eastern entranceway, next to the main gate and police post
A partially-broken 4-armed Lokeshvara on the ground at the eastern entrance to the temple
Another reconstructed Lokeshvara with 4 arms on the ground at the east gopura
A series of roof finials showing Buddha-like figures in meditation pose

Dogora

A scene from Dogora
This coming Saturday at Meta House (7pm) on Street 264 in Phnom Penh, the exquisite film Dogora will get another showing. They played it a few weeks ago and I was pleasantly surprised to find that I enjoyed it immensely. It's classed as a street level documentary without voice-over or plot, just the sights, sounds and daily routines of the Cambodian people, accompanied by a classical orchestral music track by Etienne Perruchon. French director Patrice Leconte filmed it in 2004 and its an eighty-minute film well worth watching in my opinion. Link: Dogora
The postman yesterday delivered a review copy of Milton Osborne's brand new book, Phnom Penh: A Cultural and Literary History, which I will read and review soon. I attended the book launch at ACE on Friday when the author read from the only copy of his book in the city, as a shipment of the books destined for Monument Books had been held up on the dock in Sihanoukville. They are due to arrive at Monument's Norodom Boulevard shop tomorrow. As a book freak, I'm looking forward to reading his take on the various books that have mentioned the capital over the years.

Tuesday, May 6, 2008

For the Neak Ta enthusiasts...

This popular Neak Ta can be found half-way up Oudong mountain
Just in case you haven't seen enough Neak Ta, here's a few more to sustain your appetite for this Cambodian phenomenon that has me hooked - though sometimes I sense I'm the only one who is really that interested! These are from my Oudong trip on Sunday and I have lots more photos and stories to bring you over the next few days, as well as finishing off my articles on last week's Battambang and Banteay Chhmar visit. Not enough hours in the day. By the way, it's pouring with rain at the moment, the sky is very black, the roads are beginning to flood and the regular daily showers we've been getting in the last week or so would suggest the rainy season has arrived early. Oh, and when its not raining, its incredibly hot and humid. Such is life here in Phnom Penh.
It's a strictly formal military style for this Neak Ta at Vihear Cham Ta San on Oudong mountain
This scary looking Neak Ta can be found at Wat Sopha Nvong Rotanaram
A rotund Neak Ta guarding two small boats in this shrine at Wat Vihear Samna

At last, some more Neak Ta!

This Neak Ta shrine is also home for a tiny kitten who was enjoying a spot in the sunshine at Wat Dambouk Leak
I have a lot of photos and stories to catch up on. I will get there but in the meantime, how about some Neak Ta statues that I found on my travels on Sunday to Oudong. I feel it's my duty to bring you a varied selection of these Neak Ta, that are commonly worshipped as important spirits by the local populace, and can be found in the grounds of a pagoda or in a spot within a village that is regarded as sacred. Often offerings are made to the spirit figures which can be natural pieces of sandstone, wood or even termite mounds. However, some of the more interesting are the colourfully-painted figures that are represented here.
Quite a menacing looking Neak Ta - maybe a teacher in the military? At Wat Dambouk Leak
This is Neak Ta Prakel on the road to Oudong. It was erected on top of the site of a small brick prasat, now very ruined
This wise old man, Ta Ey Say is dispensing wisdom to his pupil and can be found at Wat O'Mony Sotaram where a few blocks of laterite would suggest the site of an old prasat

Mountain bowls

A chance for the faithful to give at Neak Pean on Oudong
Any opportunity to collect a few riel from the Buddhist faithful is a noticeable feature on Oudong mountain. Here's a couple of opportunities I noticed, alongwith scores of others, at the numerous stupas and attractions on the mountain. The top photo of five Buddhas prompts the locals into lighting incense, praying and placing some money into the bowl in front of each Buddha image at a shrine called Neak Pean, which is on a small hillock shared with a Muslim mosque called Vihear Cham Ta San. Below is an opportunity for the devout to pray for good luck and fortune depending on what year, and under which animal sign, they were born. So if you were born under the pig, rabbit, cow, tiger, horse and so on, then plonk some riel in the bowl and make a wish. It's that easy.
Birth sign wish bowls on Oudong

Monday, May 5, 2008

The canons of Oudong

One of the cast-iron canons of the former capital city at Oudong
I read somewhere that the cast-iron canons to be found in one of the numerous pagodas that populate the area around Oudong are of Japanese origin and were brought to Cambodia by the Tokogawa shogunate who were based in Oudong and acted as bodyguards to one of the Kings. I first saw them a decade ago when I visited Wat Veang Chas, on the outskirts of Oudong town. At that time they protruded from the earth base of one of the wooden pagodas and looked quite dramatic in appearance. However, yesterday, with a lot of construction work taking place in the grounds of the pagoda, financed in no small part by the PM Hun Sen, the canons have been seemingly tossed aside randomly and without any consideration for this slice of Cambodian history, when Oudong was, for a while, the capital city and home of the royal court. As you might expect there's little to show that this area was once home to the royal household of quite a few kings, founded in the early 17th century by King Soryopor and finally abandoned in favour of Phnom Penh in 1866. I intend to delve a little deeper to see if I can throw any more light on the former capital. No-one that I asked at the site could tell me any more information about the canons or the former royal household, so I don't know whether these artillery pieces were purely ceremonial or had been used to fend off Thai and Vietnamese attackers in bygone years.
Half a dozen iron canons dating from the 17th century lie in a heap as construction work takes place in the grounds of the pagoda
Three of the Japanese canons lie underneath a tree in the pagoda grounds
This ceremonial pond may've been a former bathing pool for the royal household and the wooden beams may've supported a gazebo style building - or not!
This Neak Ta statue with a marvellous moustache was seated in a corner of Wat Veang Chas

Overdue Oudong

I manged to get this photo of Panmai without a spoonful of rice at her lips. Her appetite was voracious
I didn't have time to post anything of note yesterday, as I was on the road for most of the day, taking a long-overdue return trip to Oudong, one of Cambodia's former capitals, which I last visited a decade ago, and haven't been back since. And boy, did I notice a difference. More of my trip over the next few days, in the meantime, suffice to say that it was hot work climbing the hills of Oudong and stopping at various locations en route to see what I could find in various pagodas along the way. At the base of Oudong mountain, the plethora of eating huts beckoned a late lunch of roast chicken, which I shared with three youngsters and an elderly lady. There was simply too much for me to eat so sharing seemed the best option. Panmai, pictured above, tucked in without reservation and her two friends, Phirum and Sophea weren't far behind. Both of the boys acted as my guides for my stupa-visiting on the mountaintop, whilst Panmai sensibly stayed in the shade, selling her colourful bracelets. Smart girl.
LtoR: My teenage Oudong mountain guides, Phirum and Sophea - nice kids
On Saturday morning, I accompanied a group of my Hanuman work colleagues to a couple of hotel inspections. The Imperial Gardens Hotel and Villas, next to the Goldiana Hotel, was our first port of call. Next was the Khmeroyal, formerly Star Royal, on Sisowath Quay. Suffice to say they didn't come anywhere near the salubrious accommodation provided by Le Meridien , where I stayed last weekend in Siem Reap. However, I did spot something of note in the Khmeroyal and it was probably the worst painting I've ever seen of a group of Apsara dancers with Angkor Wat as the backdrop. Admittedly some of the art on offer in Cambodia can be a bit dicey but this picture was quite simply, crap.
The Apsara painting that caught my eye for all the wrong reasons at Khmeroyal Hotel