Friday, May 16, 2008
Visiting friends
Thursday, May 15, 2008
A smile goes a long way
For Sum Song Zoning, a community officer with the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) of Cambodia, the secret to conservation is a good sense of humor. His audience: monks and farmers, housewives with screaming babies – each with a skeptical look that deepened as the morning heat rose. His subject: the Bengal Florican, an endangered bird few have ever heard of, let alone seen. His task: to convince the lean-looking villagers that, should they ever come across the bird, a hefty five-pounder, it is better to save it than to eat it. By all accounts, he succeeded wonderfully. There were cheers as he took playful jabs at a monk and teased two bemused old ladies, using humor to impart the value of the bird. Diagrams and posters were marshaled to explain that, as much as they look alike, Bengal Florican eggs are not duck eggs and should be left alone. During the quiz at the end, the 30 or so participants raised their hands with gleeful eagerness, suggesting that, whether or not they ever saw the bird, they were ready to protect it. “Ten years ago, people didn’t understand the importance of the bird,” says Zoning. “Now they understand that it’s something special for Cambodia.”
Village by village, and province by province, this simple interaction is helping to save the Bengal Florican, one of the world’s rarest birds, by directly engaging the communities that dwell in the bird’s habitat. And in so doing, this approach is presenting a unique model of community-based conservation, observers and participants say. “This is a model of conservation between communities and conservationists,” says Robert van Zalinge, a field technical adviser for the WCS. “In remote regions, protected areas are set up just based on government decisions, and that is enforced. But here, in an area of high human population, you have a much larger community interface than any other protected area in Cambodia.” For bird enthusiasts, the Bengal Florican is prized for its rarity, being native to only three countries in the world: Cambodia, India, and Nepal. Today there are believed to be roughly 1,300 left in the world, with about 800 to 900 in the flood plains of Cambodia’s Tonle Sap Lake, the largest freshwater body in Southeast Asia, according to research conducted by WCS. To scientists, the bird is unique for its elaborate mating ritual, or display: the otherwise secretive males make hopping loops in the sky, hoping to attract female attention with their striking presence – black bodies set against glaring white wings. “They’re very difficult to see. But when they display, the male sort of advertises its territory, trying to attract females,” says Lotty Packman, a doctoral student from England who is assisting the WCS to track and tag the birds. For the people in these stark grasslands, though, where scarcity is a way of life, the bird is a potential source of income or food. By the 1990s, hunting had significantly diminished its numbers. Today the bird faces an even greater threat: the grasslands of the Tonle Sap, which used to stretch for hundreds of miles, are quickly diminishing as private companies convert land into large-scale rice-farming operations. Almost 30 percent of the grasslands were lost in 30 months from 2005 to 2007, warns a recent report by the WCS. “At that rate, in five to 10 years, the grasslands could be gone and the Florican extinct,” says Mr. Van Zalinge.
To prevent that, conservationists worked with the provincial governments in the flood-plain area to devise a solution: an Integrated Farming and Biodiversity Area – a protected area that outlaws large-scale dry rice farming, which damages the Florican’s habitat, but allows farmers to continue traditional methods of deep-water rice farming. The latter’s use of grazing and burning supports the Florican by preventing the growth of scrub that destroy the grass patches favored by the birds. In 2006, a provincial government decree designated 135 square miles of the flood plain a protected area, preserving roughly half of the Bengal Florican population here. So far, the provincial governments have stopped at least two large-scale dry rice projects, according the WCS, suggesting the firm commitment of local authorities. What makes the project novel is also the level of community involvement. As many as 20 times a month, community officer Zoning and others gather several dozen people in towns throughout the Tonle Sap flood plain. Men and women, young and old: Their participation has helped the Bengal Florican return, like the rest of Cambodia, from a devastating past. It is too early to say how successful the protected areas have been in increasing the overall population of Cambodia’s Bengal Florican. For now, project administrators say, success means reaching people like Meach Komhan, a farmer in the district of Baray, part of the flood-plain area. “I had never heard of the bird before,” he says, after listening to Zoning’s presentation. “I really support the conservation, because the bird is useful for Cambodian people as a natural resource. We don’t want to lose it in the future.”
The pulse of UK reggae
The pulse of UK reggae by Bobby Tanzilo (OnMilwaukee.com)
If you saw me driving to work today, you likely heard me singing along to Steel Pulse's 1982 'True Democracy,' which I extracted from the shelf this morning for the first time in many, many years. The news that the band comes to Summerfest this year - on the The Potawatomi Bingo Casino Stage & Pavilion with Miller High Life and OnMilwaukee.com - led me back to this record that was among my favorites when I was 15 and 16. I was amazed that I could remember not only every word, every drum fill, every guitar line, but also the vocal ad libs. I guess I listened to it more than a few times. Along with the band's 1978 debut, 'Handsworth Revolution,' it is an absolute classic U.K. reggae disc (ask me and I'll bore you with the others, too) and pretty high up on the list of all reggae records (we snobs make a distinction between music from Jamaica and from everywhere else).
'True Democracy' was exciting and alive when it was released. It was a bridge between rock and reggae with chicken scratch guitars, incendiary drumming and on-the-money harmonies combined with great songwriting. It also arrived at a definitive time for me. I was teaching myself to play the bass and 'True Democracy,' along with the other great records of the moment - Black Uhuru's 'Red,' Bob Marley & The Wailers' 'Uprising' and Aswad's 'New Chapter in Dub,' among them - were the best teachers a kid could ask for. They were all fueled by bass runs that were snaky and full of finesse, but were also repeated many times, allowing me to pick out the notes (and I say "pick," but I certainly did NOT use a pick, thank you very much!). The disc also helped me join my school's Jamaican community - this was Brooklyn remember - at least as an honorary member. Standing in line in the cafeteria listening to 'True Democracy' in my Walkman (remember those?!), the Jamaican kid in line behind me somehow realized or suspected that we were listening to the same record. We were and I was in.
Then there was that improbable column of dreads sported by singer and guitarist David Hinds on the cover of the U.S. release. It seemed amazingly tall and revolutionary - like a big middle finger to the people that still fought against dreadlocks (yes, there was a time when dreads were not a hip trend and kids got kicked out of their houses for sporting them) - and we had no idea just how it would continued to taunt gravity before it fell over and Hinds started tying it up 'round itself. I've seen Steel Pulse a number of times since then and the band is always killer live. Although, I don't hesitate to say that once drummer Steve 'Grizzly' Nisbett left the band, the thumping heart of Steel Pulse was gone even if the brain and the body was still alive. But go buy 'True Democracy' and feel the fire. Then go see Steel Pulse and I guarantee you that - Grizzly or no Grizzly (certainly no Grizzly, sadly, because he's retired) - Hinds and company will put on a stellar show.
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Colonial-style
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Last of the face towers
Tower 18's north face is in a perilous stateTitbits from PP
The Cambodian Premier League football season has recently kicked off and I am still scrabbling around trying to get the fixture list so I can get along to the Olympic Stadium to watch a few games. I'm currently suffering severe starvation for live football since my relocation to Cambodia. The end of the English Premiership season last weekend - which I watched on multi-screens at The Gym bar - doesn't exactly help either. I'm told the Cambodian League games are played on Saturday & Sunday and Wednesday but trying to locate a fixture list has so far proved impossible. However there is light on the horizon. The Cambodian National team has three games at home later this month as part of the Asian Football Confederation Challenge Cup, a tournament for emerging football nations. Cambodia will play Palestine on 24 May, Nepal on 26 May and Macau on 28 May, with all three games at the Olympic Stadium in Phnom Penh. The winner of this mini-group will go forward to compete in the 8-team Challenge Cup finals in India in July and August. Even I should be able to attend at least one of the games to satisfy my craving for live football.
I was very pleased to get a note from the author Milton Osborne a couple of days ago, who thanked me for my coverage of his recent book launch in Phnom Penh. He also mentioned a further delay of the arrival at Monument Books of his new book, Phnom Penh - A Cultural and Literary History. I'm still reading the book and will review it very soon.
My trip to Laos - did I mention it? - has been postponed for the time being. I was due to spend more than two weeks travelling from north to south in Laos from the end of this week, getting my first glimpse of the country and its people, but a lack of experienced staff in the office has meant I will now re-schedule my trip until June or July. A pity as I was looking forward to it, but it will happen, just later rather than sooner.
Last and certainly least, the closing date for registering political parties and their candidates for the 27 July general election here in Cambodia has passed. In all, 12 parties have registered, half of the number from the 2003 general election, where CPP won control with 73 seats out of 123. Its already dominating the headlines over here with dirty tricks much in evidence from all quarters. I expect it to get a lot worse as election day draws closer.
Whoops, I forgot to mention its the Cambodian King's birthday tomorrow - King Sihamoni will be 55 - and today is the first of a 3-day public holiday. However, I work in tourism so public holidays here mean diddly-squat. To celebrate his birthday, the face of the King will now appear on a new 20,000 riel note (worth $5.5) , printed by the National Bank.
Monday, May 12, 2008
Rahu bas-reliefs
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Making faces
Faces and Tower 15 revealed
The west face of tower 15 at Banteay Chhmar and the profile of the south face (right of the photo)Facing danger
Saturday, May 10, 2008
The eastern gopura at Banteay Chhmar
Above: One of a series of lions and garudas with arms aloft to support the celestial realm in the area of the broken eastern gopura
Above: A good example of the precarious nature of much of Banteay Chhmar as wooden supports keep this interesting pediment - the slaying of Shishupala with Krishna and rishis also present - in the eastern pavilionOn the run at Chhmar
Above: These roof finials are located inside the second enclosure of Banteay Chhmar and show small Buddha figures in meditation
The pediment above shows a bodhisattva seated on a low plinth with two worshippers at his side, over a row of five remaining figures seated in anjali poseFriday, May 9, 2008
Valmiki and Brahma
Pediments in close up
Above is a pediment on the eastern face of tower 8 that depicts the Lokeshvara with eight arms standing on a plinth supported by three lions. Worshippers surround the feet of the Lokeshvara in an attitude of anjali, with their hands clasped together in front of their chests, palms joined in prayer. The block of sandstone containing the face has been crudely removed, as has the lintel that should be sat underneath the pediment. The scene is in more detail below.
Above & below. This busy well-preserved pediment, with a multitude of figures, can be found on the western side of the corner pavilion 28. The crowned Buddha is in meditation and is seated on a plinth, with two monks at his side over a row of seven worshippers. Two apsaras are floating hear his head. The worn lintel underneath shows Buddha being held aloft over a kala.
Thursday, May 8, 2008
It's so easy by eBay
You can purchase the CD's via eBay at Hello Sailor and Fun With Dave. Roy is currently remastering his solo album, produced by Gus Dudgeon in 1978, for a second release very soon, alongwith two Cry No More CDs, Cry No More and Live at the Mulberry Tree. Find out all you ever wanted to know about Roy here.
A dream comes true
A dream comes true
The inauguration this week of a new mosque in the Cambodian village of Tramung Chrum will represent a dream come true for residents of the Muslim enclave in the overwhelmingly Buddhist country. That dream was brought to life by Alan Lightman, MIT physicist and writer who a decade or so ago, with his wife, Jeanne, made a pact to turn their energies toward humanitarian pursuits. Without a firm direction or funding, they formed the nonprofit Harpswell Foundation in 1999. Within a few years, Lightman, Jeanne and their daughter, Elyse, would attend the opening of a school built in an impoverished village 50 miles from Phnom Penh, build and manage a women's dorm and leadership center in Phnom Penh and, finally, build the new mosque in Tramung Chrum. Lightman has been entranced by science and the arts from an early age. Appointed professor of science and writing and senior lecturer in physics at MIT in 1989, he went on to head the Program in Writing and Humanistic Studies from 1991 to 1997 and helped found the Catalyst Collaborative, a collaboration between MIT and the Underground Railway Theatre of Boston in 2004. His novel, "Einstein's Dreams," published in 1993, was an international bestseller and has been translated into 30 languages.
Professor Lightman first heard of Tramung Chrum, a tiny Muslim village in Cambodia, in 2003 from the Rev. Fred Lipp. Lipp, who had been working to keep young girls in school in Cambodia with his own foundation, told Alan of a village whose only school had a roof of palm fronds. Lightman's imagination was kindled and in December of that year he and daughter Elyse accompanied Lipp to Cambodia. What they found was a village of about 500 people - mostly Muslim Chams, one of Cambodia's ethnic minorities. With neither running water nor electricity, the local economy was based on subsistence farming and menial labor. "We were overwhelmed with emotion," Lightman says softly, his eyes lighting at the memory. "These people had gone through tremendous suffering since the mid-1970s and the genocide perpetrated by the Khmer Rouge, and in spite of that they had hope and resilience. "The best expression of that hope for the future," he says, "was when we arrived, mothers holding babies came up and asked for our help to build a school. They had nothing, lived in abject poverty, but wanted a school, a future. We were so moved." Funded by donations from family and friends, the school was finished in the summer of 2005. Where a roof of palm fronds had been now stands a concrete-and-steel-girder school.
The impetus for his next project came from Veasna Chea, a native of Tramung Chrum who had made it through law school in Phnom Penh by living with three female classmates in the space on the mud floor beneath the school for four years. Male students could live in the Buddhist temples, but in the gritty capital, there were few, if any, safe places for women to stay, so few women attended college. Once again, he took on the challenge, found contractors and built the dormitory and leadership center. But that was only the beginning. Lightman reckons, "One-third of my waking hours I spend on Cambodia daily." From sleeping security guards to the students' need for medical procedures, funds for upkeep, teachers, food and all life's issues, Lightman is the go-to guy. His daily electronic communications with the dorm represent the sole exception to Lightman's personal ban on using e-mail. He is presently trying to raise a $500,000 endowment to keep the dorm and all it offers up and running in the future.
As he busied himself managing the dorm and leadership center, the villagers of Tramung Chrum, thrilled with their school, asked him to build a mosque. To Lightman, health care seemed a more compelling need, but he understood that it had to be what the entire village wanted. So he asked the men and women of the village to choose five representatives each, and he met with the two groups separately. The men wanted a mosque, the women wanted health care. A meeting was convened to give the 10 representatives the opportunity to address the whole village and then vote on which project to take forward. After a civil discussion, all the men and three women voted for the mosque. The reason? The mosque represented their spiritual health, which they considered more important than their physical health. Lightman recognized that the cultural value and tradition was different than his own and that the social fabric of the community depended on the mosque. "They are so proud," he says, "so deeply happy with this mosque." Link: harpswellfoundation
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Fourth arrest in Howes murder case
There's been another development in the Christopher Howes murder case today with the news that a 4th former Khmer Rouge soldier, Sin Dorn, was arrested Friday in the former Khmer Rouge stronghold of Anlong Veng in northern Cambodia and is being held in Phnom Penh pending a trial date, which has still to be fixed. The charges against Sin Dorn, 52, are premeditated murder of Howes (pictured above) and his Cambodian translator Houn Hourth as well as illegal confinement of both men and with being a member of rebel forces. The British de-miner from Bristol and his colleague were abducted and killed a few days later in March 1996. In a surprise development in November last year, three other former communist rebels, mastermind Khem Nguon, Loch Mao, and Chep Cheat, were arrested and charged over the kidnapping and murder of Howes and Hourth. Khem Nguon, who served as number 2 to the notorious one-legged KR commander Ta Mok, had defected from the KR to join the Cambodian armed forces where he was awarded the rank of brigadier-general in the defence ministry. The others became civil servants. All four men face 20 years in prison for premeditated murder and 10 years for illegal confinement if convicted. Families of the victims filed the original complaints in the Siem Reap provincial court, but long delays forced the transfer of the cases to the Phnom Penh Municipal Court and we now await the start of the trial. For more on Christopher Howes, please visit my website here.
Welcome to Banteay Chhmar
The welcome sign at Banteay Chhma(r) - causing confusion as the varied spelling of the last word can give the temple name two different meanings Dogora
The postman yesterday delivered a review copy of Milton Osborne's brand new book, Phnom Penh: A Cultural and Literary History, which I will read and review soon. I attended the book launch at ACE on Friday when the author read from the only copy of his book in the city, as a shipment of the books destined for Monument Books had been held up on the dock in Sihanoukville. They are due to arrive at Monument's Norodom Boulevard shop tomorrow. As a book freak, I'm looking forward to reading his take on the various books that have mentioned the capital over the years.
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
For the Neak Ta enthusiasts...
At last, some more Neak Ta!
This Neak Ta shrine is also home for a tiny kitten who was enjoying a spot in the sunshine at Wat Dambouk LeakMountain bowls
Monday, May 5, 2008
The canons of Oudong
Half a dozen iron canons dating from the 17th century lie in a heap as construction work takes place in the grounds of the pagodaOverdue Oudong
I manged to get this photo of Panmai without a spoonful of rice at her lips. Her appetite was voraciousOn Saturday morning, I accompanied a group of my Hanuman work colleagues to a couple of hotel inspections. The Imperial Gardens Hotel and Villas, next to the Goldiana Hotel, was our first port of call. Next was the Khmeroyal, formerly Star Royal, on Sisowath Quay. Suffice to say they didn't come anywhere near the salubrious accommodation provided by Le Meridien , where I stayed last weekend in Siem Reap. However, I did spot something of note in the Khmeroyal and it was probably the worst painting I've ever seen of a group of Apsara dancers with Angkor Wat as the backdrop. Admittedly some of the art on offer in Cambodia can be a bit dicey but this picture was quite simply, crap.





























































