A gracious couple who have made it their life duty to look after Wat Chas, Pat and Pia 
The unremarkable shrine of Wat ChasVery often during my travels throughout Cambodia I meet people who make a lasting impression on me and these two lovely members of the older generation did just that. Pai was so proud to tell me he was 81 years old and had lived a stone's throw away from this ancient brick temple site in all that time. His wife, Pat, was just a couple of years behind him and was equally proud of 'their' temple, which they called
Wat Chas. To most people this is merely a Buddhist shrine in a remote field with a few broken stones littering the ground, but to Pai and Pat it represents so much more. They are both deeply religious people and have made it their duty in life to look after the site, keep it free from vegetation and make it presentable for the few worshippers who bother to come to Wat Chas ('old temple'). Pai recalls a walled building in his youth but never saw the ancient temple in its prime, recalling that there were considerably more stones and carvings in years gone by, but many were taken to nearby Wat Kakoh a decade or so ago, whilst others have disappeared during the night. What remains is a small fraction of what was once in situ. You wouldn't know Wat Chas was there in reality, as there's no road to the site, just a small path between wooden houses. Its close to the foot of Phnom Sruoch, itself a smaller sister hill to Phnom Santuk, a well-known tourist spot a few kilometres south of Kompong Thom city. What makes the visit worthwhile is the bright spark behind the eyes of Pai and Pat when they talk with unmistakable pride about their temple. They recalled the time when their son had a dream and went to dig near the site, to uncover the largest stone now propped up against the shrine. They have lots of other stories to tell about the site and their own lives, so if you want to meet two people who would welcome your visit, seek them out a kilometre from the village of Kakoh. You won't be disappointed.
The selection of stones still on view at Wat Chas include some pedestals and the large stone uncovered by their son, propped up against the shrine
This Neak Ta shrine nearby contains an ancient stone together with a small Buddhist statue and a solitary head
A gracious couple who have made it their life duty to look after Wat Chas, Pat and Pia 
The unremarkable shrine of Wat Chas
The selection of stones still on view at Wat Chas include some pedestals and the large stone uncovered by their son, propped up against the shrine
This Neak Ta shrine nearby contains an ancient stone together with a small Buddhist statue and a solitary head
3 Comments:
Andy - I have seen the word NEAK TA over again in your posts. What does it precisely mean? is it a form of synchretic cult, combinig features from Buddhism with local animist beliefs and folk superstitions? -Izzy - Palo Alto, CA
Hi Izzy, thanks for asking.
You are nearly correct as far as I am aware, though I am searching for more definitive information about Neak Ta, which can refer to a statue, an old stone, a termite mound or whatever the locals believe posses the spirit of Neak Ta.
Neak Ta is fundamentally animist more than Buddhist though the two seem to have mingled over time and often Neak Ta can be found in the grounds of pagodas.
It refers specifically to whatever the local people deem to represent the land, water, forest and spirit elements and from which they gain comfort. The shrines often house small figures, sculpted items taken from ancient temples and representations of linga and so on.
I'm not convinced that most Khmers themselves could give you a definite description of Neak Ta! I certainly can't...
Andy
Andy - thanks for clarifying. Think you definitely should press for a campaign aimed at preserving Cambodian wooden pagodas and Neak Ta shrines in the countryside. How beautiful the pictures you've taken from their wall & ceiling paintings! they deserve a special chapter in your forthcoming guide. A good example of how money (from Cambodian expats mainly here in the US)can contribute sometimes to spoil and damage everything, regardless of the good intentions behind. -- Izzy
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