Overlooking the Mekong

Fellow passenger Mala and myself enjoy some Mekong viewing at Wat Han Chey

Every time I visit Wat Han Chey near Kompong Cham, thre is some sort of celebration taking place. At the weekend just passed, it was the 5-day Chheng Meng, a Chinese celebration to their ancestors and the hill was dotted with small family groupings, often with a monk present, close to one of the distinctive Chinese-style graves. Phnom Han Chey lies 20kms north of Kompong Cham city though we didn't get there by road. Instead we took the more luxurious route via the Mekong River aboard the Jayavarman cruise boat, which docked at the foot of the hill. The passengers were given the option to walk the 295 steps to the top or get a moto. I walked. As the group received their background information from a couple of guides, I wandered around the temple grounds having been here a handful of times before. There is quite a bit to see, with the brick prasat, the sandstone cella, a couple of other ruined brick shrines, all from around the 7th century, a human-like gibbon that'll eat from your hand, a variety of other religious buildings, one containing wax figures of some of the country's most famous monks, and so on. Oh, and there's some beautiful views of the Mekong River as well. I always feel that a trip to Wat Han Chey is well worth the effort if you are stopping overnight in Kompong Cham. And as you leave don't forget to visit the renovated basalt tower at the foot of the hill, known as Kuk Preah Theat, that was put back together again with a donation from the US government. We got back on board the Jayavarman with our next stop in Kompong Cham city itself to visit Wat Nokor, after enjoying a gorgeous lunch. I could get used to touring like this.

The early morning sun trying to break through the clouds above the Mekong River

A family group gather at a Chinese gravesite for Chheng Meng

Part of the sanskrit engraved doorway at Prasat Han Chey

A look out over the Mekong River from Wat Han Chey

The reconstructed basalt tower of Kuk Preah Theat

Buddhist heads on display inside the brick tower of Prasat Han Chey

Wax-work figures of three of the country's most famous monks

Now docking

A travel operator group shot at Wat Han Chey. I'm grimacing because of the sun, honest. Pic courtesy of Theary

I'm back in Phnom Penh and soaking wet as its pouring with rain. It was gorgeously hot in Kompong Cham yesterday - we had shore visits to Wat Han Chey as well as Wat Nokor - but we woke up to a downpour this morning and as we left the boat after two nights aboard, it only got worse. I'm in the office now, catching up with work and emails. The Jayavarman cruise boat was excellent. The staff in particular were adorable, I'm fit to bust with all the food I've consumed and the boat itself was of a very high standard. More later but suffice to say I was suitably impressed. I have the usual array of C-League football matches this afternoon and tomorrow to keep me occupied. Don't forget the Movin' contemporary dance performances at Sovanna Phum tonight and tomorrow if you can get a seat.

Meeting the locals, Srey Chea and Srey Thy at Wat Han Chey

The Jayavarman moored at the foot of Phnom Wat Han Chey, north of Kompong Cham

The bamboo bridge is in operation to get over to Koh Paen opposite Kompong Cham

Luxury cruising

In dock in Phnom Penh, The Jayavarman cruise ship

The Jayavarman luxury cruise ship was in port today so I decided on a visit to give it the once over in comparison to the other cruise ships on offer between Saigon and Phnom Penh and beyond. It compares very favourably with the larger RV La Marguerite, which plies the same route and which has 46 cabins compared to the Jayavarman's 26, which includes two state rooms. Named after the great Khmer king of the 12th century, each of its cabin has a balcony, good cabin space, nice sized bathrooms, air-con and all mod cons, except tv's. The public areas are equally spacious and breezy, with restaurants and bars and a spa. I've seen both boats up close and had a good feeling about the Jayavarman, I liked the decor though maybe its the name that resonates with me (yes, I'm easily pleased). Most of the staff are Khmer and the boat has been operational since the back end of last year. They plan to add a jacuzzi pool next season, the Marguerite already has a substantial whirlpool, which will be a welcome addition. Most of the clientele to-date have been Americans, Aussies or German/Swiss. Cruises are not a cheap way to see a country but for some, they are the only way to go.

The Bao Dai suite stateroom, one of two suites on-board

A view of the deluxe stateroom aboard the Jayavarman

Each room has its own balcony to enjoy the view and eat breakfast

The Henry Mouhot Lounge on-board The Jayavarman

Musing on a Monday morning

I've been a bit light on posts this weekend with the Cambodian football cup final taking precedence, more of which you can read about on my football-only blog here. I forgot to attend the book launch at FCC of Carrying Cambodia last night too, but that's unfortunately something that comes with the territory as I get older, I forget a lot of things. It's a public holiday today, to celebrate International Women's Day when the spotlight will be deservedly turned onto the women in Cambodia. That spotlight gets turned on all too infrequently in my opinion. It's the women of Cambodia who do all the work around here, lest we forget. This week may be extra busy as I'm planning on a few days in Siem Reap but nothing's confirmed as yet. More as it happens. I'm meeting a student from the UK at lunchtime who's over here working on her PhD on the arts scene in Cambodia. Not sure how much useful information I can provide but we'll see. I also want to get out this afternoon and visit the Jayavarman cruise ship which should be in dock, as its a new cruise boat operating the Saigon-Siem Reap route. On paper it looks like a tip-top cruiser. Update: Just back from a visit to the Jayavarman and it definitely is a very nice cruise ship. It's the best I've seen of the boats doing the Saigon to Phnom Penh/Siem Reap route. It's been operating since the back end of last year, bookings are in great shape and I can see why. It's a stylish vessel and the rooms are a good size, lovely decoration, big bathrooms and substantial deck and relaxation areas. It should have a jacuzzi pool next high season, which will just about round it off nicely.