Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Atop Angkor Wat
Titanic Unveiling on Top of Angkor Wat
What links the RMS Titanic and the Cambodian jungle temple of Angkor Wat? Author Helen Churchill Candee survived the infamous maritime disaster to write Angkor the Magnificent, history's most captivating account of Southeast Asia's mysterious Khmer Empire. Her book just reached new heights in Cambodia when publisher Kent Davis unveiled an expanded modern edition of her classic literally on top of Angkor Wat.
Balanced precariously atop a metal scaffold 20 stories above the Cambodian jungle, publisher Kent Davis has recently unveiled Angkor The Magnificent, an expanded edition of Helen Churchill Candee's 1924 Asian travel classic featuring the first published biography of the 20th century adventuress. "It's astounding to think of ancient Khmer stonemasons experiencing this view 1,000 years ago. This is the type of travel adventure Helen Churchill Candee lived for...her spirit is certainly here today!" said Davis at the top of the temple's central tower on a temporary metal framework erected for restoration of the complex pinecone-shaped structure.
Davis held the ceremony at Angkor Wat before donating copies of the book to Cambodia's key libraries including the Biblioteque Nationale, the Center for Khmer Studies, the Khmer Arts Academy and L'Ecole francaise d'Extreme-Orient. "Angkor Wat is one of the most magical places on earth. Candee's travelogue vividly portrays an Angkor of yesteryear for those looking for insights into these truly magnificent Cambodian ruins" comments Yale archeology professor Dr. Dougald O'Reilly who founded Heritage Watch to preserve Cambodia's heritage. This historic release marks the first time in 85 years that readers can enjoy Candee's evocative descriptions of Asian adventure travel in the land of the lost Khmer civilization. Today, Helen Candee is still the perfect guide to bring the temples to life...for visitors experiencing these wonders in person or from their reading chairs. Angkor the Magnificent is available on Amazon.com in the US and Europe.
The book is produced by DatAsia Press which publishes books focusing on Cambodia and Southeast Asian history. As a researcher with Devata.org, Kent Davis works to document the importance of women in Asian history and to decode the meaning of the 1,780 apsara (female goddess) portrait carvings found Angkor Wat. Dr. Dougald O'Reilly is an author, archaeologist and Yale University professor specializing in prehistoric Southeast Asia. He is committed to preserving Cambodia's cultural heritage and founded Heritage Watch, a non-profit organization working to preserve cultural icons and stop antiquity theft in Cambodia. To read my earlier review of the book, click here.
Labels: Angkor, Kent Davis
Dangerous documentary
Here's what Page had to say about the experience:
"In 1990, I returned to Cambodia with a TV crew from Granada Television in the UK to make a documentary called 'Danger on the Edge of Town' to try and find out all I could about their fate, I even allowed myself to hope that we might find them. Of course we didn’t but we did find people that they had stayed with, fed them and could identify them from a book of the other ‘Missing’ which I carried with me. It was an incredibly emotional and spiritual journey. Hearing of how they had been marched from place to place at night to avoid American bombing. How the people had got to know them and like them and how one day they were just taken away with their hands tied behind their backs and never seen again."
It also led Page to establish the Indochina Media Memorial Foundation, to honour the 135 photographers who died from both sides of the conflict. He also produced a book of their work with Horst Faas called Requiem, widely acknowledged as being the best book on the Vietnam War. Another book published by Page in 1995 details his investigations into the fate of his two friends, which he called Derailed in Uncle Ho's Victory Garden, whilst Perry Deane Young also wrote a book about the missing friends, titled Two of the Missing.
Labels: Tim Page
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Helmet or fine
Bernie & Nicholas combine
We start a school in Cambodia - by Nicholas Kristof
There was a special reason for the timing of this trip to Cambodia, one you won’t read about in my columns: My family has built a junior high school in Cambodia, and we just had the opening ceremony. We timed it for the Christmas vacation, so our three kids — aged 11 through 16 — could see it. Oh, yes, and so that they could see kids who are desperately eager to get an education. I’ve been visiting Cambodia for the last dozen years and have been particularly moved by the horrific sex trafficking here. One of the antidotes to prevent trafficking is education, and Cambodia is desperately short of schools. A couple of years ago I wrote about a school in Seattle that had funded a school in Cambodia through American Assistance for Cambodia. I was impressed with the organization and the way it gets extra bang for the buck through matching funds from the Asian Development Bank and the World Bank. Moreover, in some countries, you build a school and have a nice new building, but the teachers never show up. That’s much less of a problem in Cambodia, where one of the bottlenecks truly is school buildings. So my wife, Sheryl, and I talked it over and decided to start our own school. We had just received an advance for a book about women in the developing world — “Half the Sky,” coming out this fall! — and it seemed only appropriate to use the money to support girls in a poor country. And we also wanted to show our kids a glimpse of need abroad and the way education can transform people’s lives.
Our school is a middle school a couple of hours east of Phnom Penh, and it was finally finished this month. So Sheryl and I and the kids came here as a family trip, all five of us, and participated in the school-opening ceremony. It was quite an event: Buddhist monks opened it, the deputy governor spoke, and each member of our family spoke briefly. There were about 1,000 people attending, mostly students and their parents, and they got a real kick out of seeing my kids speak. American Assistance for Cambodia is the brainchild of Bernie Krisher, a former news magazine correspondent who in 1993 started it as an aid group to support Cambodia. He has built 400 schools around the country, as well as health programs and projects to fight sex trafficking. He also publishes the Cambodia Daily, an English-language paper, and even persuaded J.K. Rowling to donate Khmer-language rights to “Harry Potter,” so that cheap Harry Potter books could encourage Cambodian children to start reading. Bernie is truly an extraordinary figure who is having a far-reaching impact on the people of Cambodia, and I’m just proud to know him.
If anyone out there wants to volunteer to teach English in the Cambodian countryside, the principal of our school said he would welcome an American teacher. He said the village would put the teacher up either at the Buddhist pagoda or in a local person’s home. If you’re interested, contact American Assistance for Cambodia to be put in touch with the principal. Of course, there are lots of other ways to help Cambodia. I met a woman volunteering at teaching English to children at the garbage dump in Phnom Penh; she loves it and finds new meaning in the project. The organization is A New Day Cambodia, run by a Chicago couple and getting rave reviews all around. (There are fewer children at the dump now than when I last visited in 2004, and one reason is the New Day school.) And I had lunch with Alan Lightman, an MIT professor who on the side runs Harpswell Foundation (and who I've featured a few times on this blog), which provides a free dormitory and leadership training for young Cambodian women who otherwise would not be able to attend university. In my speech to the new school, I told the kids that I sometimes wondered why America was so rich and Cambodia was so poor. It’s not because Americans are smarter or more industrious than Cambodians, because Cambodians are sharp as a whistle and incredibly hard-working. One of the factors, I believe, is the educational gap, and we’re just so pleased to do our part to reduce that gap.
Labels: Schools
Monday, December 29, 2008
Ream in pictures
Labels: Ream
Mishmash
Incredible though it may seem, one of the Southeast Asian underdogs pulled off the surprise of the year in the final of the AFF Suzuki Cup with Vietnam taking the honours after defeating the high-rollers of Thailand, coached by the British bulldog himself Peter Reid, in the two-legged final. They won 2-1 in Bangkok and yesterday they clinched the cup with a last minute goal in a 1-1 draw. I reckon the Vietnamese will be celebrating for weeks after their success in the competition gripped the nation by the balls. You'll recall that Cambodia were knocked out in the group stages after defeats against Singapore, Indonesia and Myanmar. On that front, it's all gone very quiet after the Cambodian football authorities said they were going to review the team's performance during the Suzuki Cup and make a decision about the future of coach Prak Sovannara. I for one hope that they see that knee-jerk reactions aren't going to help Cambodia's football team improve, it needs stability and Sovannara is the best man for the job. They've tried foreign coaches before and it hasn't worked. Now they need to give a Cambodian coach the chance to make his mark. He's already taken them to the AFF finals with a squad of very young players and he needs time to work with them, improve their fitness, team work and skill-set and who knows, Cambodia could follow Vietnam's lead in 2010.
I'm a mite worried that too much sun has gone to the head of my pals in Steel Pulse, Selwyn Brown and Amlak Tafari. I know Amlak will do anything for a laugh but for Selwyn to dress up as a pirate is a little disconcerting! This photo was taken at the end of October when the band were playing at the SPI Music festival in Texas, and the guys joined VIP ticket holders aboard the 17th century replica Black Dragon pirate ship. Photo by Christy McDonald.
Renowned Vietnam War era photographer Tim Page is back in Phnom Penh, from his home in Brisbane, and will hold an exhibition of his photography at Meta House from 4-7 January which will feature some of his photographs taken in the past 40 years. British-born, his reputation during the Vietnam conflict was an influence on Dennis Hopper's portrayal in the 1979 film Apocalypse Now, and his work can be seen in a slew of coffee table photographic books since. He's also written a book about his search for the answer to whatever happened to fellow photographers Dana Stone and Sean Flynn, who both disappeared in Cambodia in 1971. Page will open the exhibition on Sunday 4th with the screening of the documentary 'Danger On The Edge of Town' and it will continue until Wednesday 7th with more documentary screenings, Q&A's, etc.
Another photo from the archives has turned up and reminded me that it's over 30 years since the wave of punk rock meets reggae was sweeping through the UK and engulfing bands like The Clash and Steel Pulse and uniting them against the National Front and others who were spouting their racist views. Here members of The Clash are with Pulse's Michael Riley (far right) outside the home of the National Front leader Martin Webster in one of many photo opportunities that showed the collaboration of black and white during 1977 and 1978 when the Rock Against Racism movement was in full flow. To find out more about Steel Pulse's activism in those couple of years, click here and read the plethora of articles I have accumulated over the years.
Labels: Steel Pulse, Tim Page
Sunday, December 28, 2008
Into Ream National Park
Labels: Ream
Final Chi Phat photos #2
Final Chi Phat photos #1
In the Cardamoms
An early start to our second day saw us take to the atmospheric misty river at 6am and a combination of motorized and traditional rowing boats for 3.5 hours and about twenty kilometres before we left the boats at Domnak Kom to begin our trek through the forest. Needing to keep our wits about us to avoid the overhanging branches and foot-tripping vines on the ground as well as the leeches that were lying in wait with every footstep. As it turned out I think I was the only one not to suffer a bite from one of these blood-suckers. Accompanied by five guides including Mee, the project co-ordinator, they cooked us lunch before we took a rest at a small riverbed at Chunlea Pran, which was scheduled to be our overnight stop. However the pace of our hike was so quick - I'd liken it to a forced march - we decided to carry onto stay overnight at Veal Ta Prak, a clearing with a nearby stream, which is where camp was set up by the guides, with everyone assigned a hammock and blanket. I was knackered and whilst a hammock isn't my preferred choice of bedding, it would have to do.
Both dinner and breakfast the next morning was cooked by Engly, a fomer soldier and kick-boxer turned guide and was pretty darn good. Our other guides included a twenty-year old female guide Manet. Some of the group went hornbill-spotting before bedtime and first thing in the morning in the nearby grassy clearing. We left camp just before 9am for the final three-hours of trekking back to Chi Phat, along a much-easier path through the forest and finally across rolling open grasslands, arriving back at the guesthouse at noon. My feet were in agony - trekking certainly does not rank amongst my most pleasurable pursuits. Whilst the others took mountainbikes to a cave and waterfall after lunch, I had forty winks before catching up with Ka and her family again for my final sunset across the river. I was in bed by 9.30pm after another delicious dinner at the CBET office.
Another early departure the following morning at 6.30am, meant we were back in Phnom Penh a little after 11am. The community project is designed to provide an alternative livelihood for the former hunters and loggers in the four villages of the Chi Phat commune and though its still in its infancy, it seems to be doing just that. On our 1st night in the village, there were twenty visitors, which is the maximum occupancy they can cope with at the moment. Coverage in the latest Lonely Planet guide has alerted the backpacker crowd and they are already making their way to Chi Phat to enjoy the trekking, cycling and natural resources that the area has to offer in abundance. Don't expect herds of elephants and the like, though there are a group of 10 in the area, and you'll do well to spot monkeys, wild pigs, deer and a variety of birds, though remember the area was heavily logged by the Khmer Rouge and the wildlife is only just beginning to recover. The hospitality and food we received was excellent, on the trek and in the village, and as long as you don't expect 5-star facilities, you'll see a very different side to Cambodia compared to Angkor and the beaches of Sihanoukville.
Missing music
Labels: Gabbidon, Leonie Moore
Saturday, December 27, 2008
No smiling matter
Tourism's no smiling matter
Europeans and Americans are feeling the heat of the global monetary meltdown and far-flung destinations are suffering the after effects of greater financial caution
Cambodia's financial dependence on tourism in the face of the global meltdown has rung alarm bells across the kingdom. It has also put at risk the livelihoods of economic migrants employed in hotels and tourist businesses in Siem Reap, Cambodia's chaotic de-facto second city and tourism hub. Surprisingly, Cambodia's nascent tourism industry will be little affected, according to Tourism Ministry officials...
Official optimism is, though, only one side of the story...
Mark Ellison, Asia Adventures' managing director, said as far as the western market is concerned "tourism worldwide and in Cambodia will undoubtedly take a downturn". When people's houses are losing value, unemployment rises and uncertainty prevails, he added, "luxury" items such as holidays are the first thing to be cut.
Andy Brouwer, product manager at Hanuman Tourism, agreed. "The global financial crisis is affecting our client base in Europe and America and their willingness to spend large sums of money on leisure," he said. "Long-haul travel is one of the first things to go when times are hard. There may be some pain before Cambodia once again continues its impressive gains."
The negative effects may linger, Brouwer warned. "The crisis is maturing in the US, but even when it bottoms out we can still expect some lean years. The crisis is only just warming up in other parts of the world and it will affect all types of visitor to Cambodia. Older travellers may have seen their savings reduced dramatically, younger travellers will find it harder to come by jobs and loans, while mid-lifers will be looking at the value of their properties and taking more ocal trips."
Christopher Gow, director of Symbiosis Travel, was equally pessimistic for the short term... "certainly has got to diversify. Cambodia is focused so heavily on Siem Reap at the expense of everywhere else...[except] the hoteliers. Even in Siem Reap you only have to go a couple of kilometres and cross the river on the way to the temples to find people who haven't got running water or electricity - they're living in abject poverty and haven't benefited one iota from the massive growth of tourism."
Brouwer was of a similar mind. "It is important that the industry expands its range to offer more to tourists than Angkor," he said. "If there's little else to interest them, tourists will simply use Cambodia as a short-stop destination and primarily limit themselves to Angkor. We need more to attract visitors away from Siem Reap to give Angkor some breathing space. There are plans afoot to expand options on the little-developed south coast, but without harmonious development by the authorities in league with the local population, and the natural resources, this could be a great opportunity lost."
...Gow was more cautious. "I think the Angkor temples will remain a strong attraction but the danger is that it's one of those things people will come and see once and never come back again, unless you diversify," he said. "Every client we have falls in love with Cambodia, but will they go and see Angkor Wat a second time?"
[excerpts courtesy of Southeastern Globe]
Friday, December 26, 2008
History revealed
It was a Vietnamese colonel, Mam Lai, who turned the former S-21 prison into a musuem in 1979 and had been the person responsible for the stupa of skulls at Choeung Ek. Lai, the former curator of the American War Crimes museum in Saigon, added the most controversial exhibit at Tuol Sleng - a map of the country constructed out of human skulls - as the Vietnamese deliberately demonized the Khmer Rouge and personalized the "Pol Pot-Ieng Sary genocidal clique." It's clear that photographs and confessions, seen by reliable sources soon after the Tuol Sleng archive left by the retreating Khmer Rouge was discovered, subsequently disappeared but where those invaluable documents ended up isn't known.
On the subject of Tuol Sleng and DC Cam, a new book is just about to be published detailing the story of one of S-21's rare survivors, Bou Meng. In 2002, DC Cam's magazine Searching for the Truth reported that Bou Meng had disappeared and was presumed dead. However, he'd survived and like his fellow inmate Vann Nath, his skill as a portrait painter had saved him, though he lost his wife and two children in the Khmer Rouge slaughter. The 175-page book Bou Meng: A Survivor from Khmer Rouge Prison S-21: Justice for the Future, Not for the Victims, written by researcher Vannak Huy will soon be on sale from DC Cam.
Labels: DC Cam, S-21, Tuol Sleng
New year resolution
Cambofest reminder
Day 1: A five minute animation called The Day The Buffalo Escaped, and a 30-minute documentary by Leslie Hope on the street kids in Phnom Penh called What I See When I Close My Eyes.
Day 2: The star of the show as far as I'm concerned is the 10pm showing at the XBar of The Red Sense. Director Tim Pek's Khmer Rouge haunted tale set in Australia makes its debut appearance in this country and should not be missed (even though I can't get to the screening myself!). Also showing on day 2 is the six minute NISC animation by teenage Khmer students.
Day 3: An 80-minute feature documentary called The Return by director Sven Hill focuses on dance and the disabled. Also being screend are an 8-minute Jason Rosette (the man responsible for CamboFest) docu called Vuth Learns To Rock, and a 14-minute docu by Lach Sophy called Childhood of Mine, about a young boy living near the Vietnamese border.
Day 4: The festival's final day will include Where The Lotus Blooms, a 30-minute film by Matthew Jaik all about love and loss in Cambodia.
For more on CamboFest, click here.
Thursday, December 25, 2008
Elephants' tv debut
Saving Cambodia's Musical Heritage by Noah Griffin
Stafford, on a family trip to the area, traveled to Siem Reap City. There, he heard a performance of the moribund music played from an ancient instrument he had seen carved in bas relief on the walls of Bayon, one of the main temples of Angkor Wat. The instrument is called the Kse Diev, meaning one string. You pluck harmonics on it, moving it on and off one's chest. Some of the last generation of surviving players were nearly all wiped out by the Khmer Rouge. Stafford's fascination with the music, along with his training, impelled him to quench his curiosity as to the music's current status, leading him to the discovery of the fragile nature of its existence. He quickly found that precious little of it had ever been recorded. Stafford raised funds to found Studio CLA (Cambodia Living Arts), a nonprofit ethnographic audio visual production studio with the goal of archiving Cambodia's endangered musical traditions, training local engineers in audio and visual production arts, and providing a laboratory for new creative and collaborative works.
CLA has now has four self-produced CD's for sale in Cambodia. The recent underground documentary, "Sleepwalking through the Mekong," is based on a Los Angeles and Long Beach band's pilgrimage to Cambodia to record in Stafford's studio and to collaborate with traditional CLA artists. Stafford has plenty of in-country support for the collaborative project. Most noteworthy are Arn Chorn-Pond and Sophy Him, whom he met in February 2002, during his first trip to Cambodia. Arn Chorn, by playing revolutionary songs on the flute, survived the horrors of the Khmer Rouge regime that turned him into a child soldier. Today, he is an internationally recognized human rights leader, a recipient among other honors, of the Anne Frank Memorial Award and is the subject of the award winning documentary: "The Flute Player."
Sophy Him, a composer, is a professor of music and fine arts at the Royal Academy of Cambodia in Phnom Penh. Stafford, in support of Him's work, has been part of the creative team supplying additional music and direction for "Where Elephants Weep," the first-known contemporary Cambodian rock opera with a mission to stir young Cambodians to honor their heritage within the context of the changing global society and to inspire them to learn more about Cambodia's performing living arts. The opera had its world premiere in Cambodia this year.
Last but not least from Cambodian Living Arts comes this appeal to raise money for the schooling of one of their best students, Srey Peu, who is in danger of not completing her studies after her sponsor pulled out. Read about Srey Peu, one of the most promising students in the CLA stable here and their efforts to raise $3,500.
Preak Piphot sunsets
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Chippy from Chi Phat
Labels: Chi Phat
Seng's survival
As a postscript to the above, Kilong Ung has been in touch to let me know that the manuscript for his personal memoir, Golden Leaf: A Khmer Rouge Genocide Survivor, has just been finished and he's looking for a publisher to get his autobiography out before the end of next year. Kilong lives in Portland, Oregon and made his way to America in 1979 after surviving the Khmer Rouge regime when he lost both parents and many family members. He's now a software engineer and has a long list of civic involvement under his belt including four years as president of the Cambodian–American Community of Oregon. Whilst on the subject of survivor memoirs, does anyone have any information on a book by Champ S Teng called Cambodia, As I Remember: The True Story of a Beautiful Country Under War. Champ lives in Dallas and is another survivor of the KR time who made his way to a new future in America in 1979.
Germans invade Cambodia
Remembering Thea
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Village view
Chi Phat exposed
Frogs legs
Labels: Cardamoms
Monday, December 22, 2008
Season's greetings
Season's Greetings.
At this time of year it's all too easy to forget what Christmas actually means, I know I have.
I dare say many of you are still planning a last minute shopping trip so little Wayne can have the violent computer game he's been dreaming of and granny gets her new brassiere. My advice? Sod 'em.
Things were much simpler when I was a child. We didn't get presents as dad spent all his money on prostitutes but it didn't bother us. My sister and I were quite happy playing a game of split the kipper or letting people's tyres down. I also have very fond memories of throwing a big tin of paint at some carol singers. One of them was quite badly hurt!
We're constantly being told to spare a thought for those worse off than ourselves. I haven't got a pot to piss in and I doubt if anyone's that bothered.
Must go now as Pat from next door is on her way round with some top quality weed.
HAPPY CHRISTMAS!
In my view the Cry No More gig - billed yet again as their farewell appearance, as it is every year - should be on television as a special seasonal tv offering. Talking of tv, there will be two showings of Where Elephants Weep on tv here in Cambodia on Christmas Day (25th) and New Years Day (1 January). They will be screened by CTN and will be beamed into Cambodian households at 7.30pm. And a show that my colleague Nick Ray worked on for Hanuman Films last month is scheduled to be shown on British tv on 28 December, as the Top Gear trio (Jeremy Clarkson, James May, Richard Hammond) will be conquering Vietnam on motorbikes in an hour-long special. Expect fireworks in this season finale.
Nuptials
Fun, fun, fun
Friday, December 19, 2008
Chi Phat here we come
Labels: Cardamoms, Chi Phat, Sihanoukville
Thursday, December 18, 2008
Scan gallery
Eco-tour hotspots
In the meantime, here's four more projects that I've just this minute heard about. They are brand new, hot off the press and have been in place for a matter of weeks. Primarily they have been flagged for local, Khmer tourists but I know barangs will be welcome too, the only downside is that the website promoting these new sites isn't working properly yet. The four community-based projects are at Kompong Khleang, Preah Net Preah, Kouk Daung and Teuk Hot. So what are they? Essentially they are taking advantage of the natural resources in these areas and giving the local community the opportunity to benefit from tourism income. Each of the four projects includes boat rides, as all three are promoted by the Community Fisheries authorities that serve the surrounds, and offer visits to local villages to see lifestyles, fishing activities, flooded forests, other scenic attractions in the locale such as mountains, lakes and pagodas, sampling the local food delicacies, buying locally-made souvenirs ...and enjoying a pedalo ride! Yes, you heard me correctly - the Khmers love them. Kompong Khleang is 12kms from Route 6 as you head towards Siem Reap. Preah Net Preah is 4kms from Route 6 and 30kms east of Sisophon. Kouk Daung is located 20kms from Battambang and 5kms from Prasat Ek Phnom. Teuk Hot is 16kms from Kompong Chhnang, very close to Route 5. The website, when its back on track, is here.
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Congratulations
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Waterfalls galore
Monday, December 15, 2008
Chi Phat fun
Find out all you need to know about Chi Phat here.
Bad timing?
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Colonial Kampot
Labels: French colonial, Kampot
Savin in all her glory
Labels: Classical Dance, Sam Savin
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Classical escapism
Labels: Classical Dance, Sam Savin
Tek Chhou Zoo
Friday, December 12, 2008
Tear-jerker
As for the MTVExit concert, don't get me started on that. Scheduled to kick-off at 4pm, I was on time and three hours later was still waiting for the bloody show to begin. By this time I had completely lost patience, especially after watching half an hour of kiss-arse speeches from various sponsors and do-gooders who all professed their love for Sar Kheng and the government. It was cringeworthy. I couldn't be bothered to hang around any longer especially to listen to headliners I'd never heard of - Click who? Okay, I did want to hear the line-up of Khmer superstars but I can wait for another day to hear them. It was well attended for sure (including a group of demented screaming barangs) and I should know that nothing in Cambodia ever starts on time, but I'd already lost my rag at the heavy-handed security buffoons, who couldn't organize a piss-up in a brewery, and three hours late is enough to try the patience of a saint. I hope they suffered from one of Phnom Penh's regular power outages.
Prima ballerina
Svay Ken
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Penny for my thoughts?
"The Federation has invested money for the team. The three games were defeats, despite the efforts for players' salaries as well as their physical preparation. More than half the players are paid 1 million riel per month ($250), other 750,000 riel (about $190), with a daily bonus of $15 per player for food. That was paid throughout the period of preparation and competition. Sponsors have supported us. But the final result is completely negative. Like other nations, the coach has carte blanche to form the team and is therefore responsible for its results. The Executive Committee will consider the arguments from Prak Sovannara on the poor performances. We'll see then whether to change or make greater changes in the team. Fans are disappointed and say it is worse than before, while other countries are progressing."
With their record for making changes, I sense a distinct whiff of unhappiness from the Federation's executive committee. Coach Prak Sovannara (pictured) is the only A-listed coach in the country, so he's the best homegrown coach they can have. And he only took over in July. If they feel a change is required, then they will have to look outside Cambodia's borders for a new coach. They've tried it before of course with their previous three coaches namely Joachim Fickert, Scott O'Donnell and a South Korean coach but it didn't work then either.
I suggest its time for consolidation and to give Sovannara a fair crack of the whip. He took them to their first AFF finals for a few years and whilst the results went against Cambodia, they simply don't play enough international games to be confident when they come up against better prepared and physically stronger opposition, especially the likes of Singapore and Indonesia. Sovannara hasn't yet had time to work properly with his young squad of players, he needs the Federation to back him and his judgement, not to cut him loose after half a year in the job.
Okay, there were some players in the line-up that I personally would look to replace but its whether there's anyone suitable and better in the domestic league. All of Cambodia's players play in the domestic competition, so maybe it would help their development if they were to branch out to other leagues in the region. Certainly keeper Samreth Seiha is good enough and I would suggest that Sun Sovannarith, Khim Borey and Kouch Sokumpheak also have enough about them to play in a higher-standard league in a neighbouring country. It would certainly benefit their personal development and have a beneficial knock-on for the national team as well.
The Federation need to do their bit by getting a suitable program of international friendly fixtures lined up for 2009, before the SEAsean Games take place in Laos at the end of next year. That will mean a few games against neighbouring countries but they should also enter Cambodia for any of the other regional tournaments that take place. And if possible, get some professional teams from the J-league or S-League to pay a visit (even better get a British Premiership team over here, which Vietnam are doing) and give the national team some different opponents and options. I can see South Korea looming large in the picture as the Federation has received funds from that direction, and that is all well and good, but I hope they will expand their horizons a bit beyond Korea.
So stick with Sovannara, give him the resources and opportunities he needs to develop his very young squad, trust his judgement and allow him to make mistakes (because he will) and to experiment as long as there are enough signs that the national team is improving. Don't hold the axe over his head and don't keep talking about money. There's enough rich people in Cambodia who could be tapped for cash to support the team. If Cambodians can take pride in their national football team, then everyone will feel good about themselves. It can easily be an important part of raising Cambodia's profile as football is one sure way to inject even more pride and passion into Cambodian hearts and minds. And to have a Cambodian at the helm is even better.
Despite all of this, I fear my plea will fall on deaf ears.
Eco-friendly?
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
Celebrating our rights
At peace
Cry No More Christmas Cracker
This year's show will feature a number of support acts including Dolly Parton, Bjork, Coldplay, Fatboy Slim and The Brian Rizla Experience. The half time bingo session will be great fun as usual and the raffle prizes are better than ever, including a cruet set, three bottles of vinegar, doilies and a stuffed bear, as well as the hat with a side pocket. Unfortunately, Betty Winstanley, who became a great-grandmother this year, congratulations Betty, will be unable to perform her much loved pole dancing routine due to advancing arthritis. Shame. I've had a number of emails asking why, as it's such a tremendous night out, we don't increase the admission charge. The reason is quite simple, we're not just international showbiz celebrities, we care.
Santa Claus, Santa Claus
A weirdo with a beard
He comes down people's chimneys
He's sick and rightly feared
Merry Christmas!
Roy Hill
Myspace
Labels: Cry No More, Roy Hill
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Left to rue what might've been
Cambodia's coach Prak Sovannara stuck with the same starting line-up for the third consecutive game and after Khim Borey had gone close at one end, Moe Win headed home from a corner on the half-hour to give Myanmar the lead. Five minutes later Win Thein escaped his marker to fire home a second. Borey again had a great chance to score before Kouch Sokumpheak fired in Cambodia's first goal of the tournament on 40 minutes after his first shot had been saved. It was no more than they deserved. After the break, Chan Rithy missed a glorious chance to pull level, before Sun Sovannarith was hauled down by the Myanmar keeper for a penalty on 77 minutes. Borey stepped up to net a confident equaliser. I am mystified why the referee did not send off the Myanmar goalkeeper, as well as another defender earlier in the half, who as last man hauled back Sokumpheak on the break. Games are won and lost on such decisions. In this instance, Myanmar grabbed that late winner through Min Tun, leaving Cambodia to rue their missed opportunities.
The Cambodia line-up: 1 Seiha; 2 Chanbunrith; 3 Raksmey; 4 Tiny (5 Sothearith); 7 Borey; 10 Sokumpheak; 11 Chan Rithy (6 Virath); 13 Narith (9 Sochivorn); 14 Sovannarith; 16 El Nasa; 17 Sok Rithy.
Bokor's falls
Full schedule
In my haste to talk all things cultural, I forgot that tonight is Cambodia's final game in their Suzuki Cup competition, when they play Myanmar in Bandung. Both sides are already out of the cup having lost their opening two games, so its national pride at stake for this game. Myanmar (or Burma to most of us) will be without their first-choice keeper and coach who have been consigned to the stands after a fracas during their last game against Singapore. For Cambodia its an opportunity to play against one of the lesser SEAsean nations and if they play their proverbial socks off they may even get a result. The game is being shown on tv at 7.30pm I believe. Last but not least, Sam Lorn, the Cambodian film director of Forlorn Films has a new action-thriller movie currently showing at the Sorya Cinema (Screen 2, 5th floor of the Sorya Shopping Mall) called Far Cry, adapted from the game of the same name. Four show-times each day and in both Khmer and English.
Teenage hero
At the moment Seiha is at the mercy of his leaky and shaky defence in every international match he plays. That means he gets more chance to shine than most keepers but it also means he is far too often exposed. I like his gutsy approach, his willingness to come for crosses marks him as courageous though in time he will realise that its a tactic that should be used sparingly and not all the time. In the domestic Cambodia Premier League he plays for the National Defense Ministry, who finished runners-up in this year's competition and are the only team not to employ the services of foreign players. Last season, he played with Phnom Penh Empire and made his debut for the Cambodia national team, after coming through the youth ranks at international level. He's now Cambodia's first-choice keeper, though he enjoys a healthy rivalry with Ouk Mic for the custodian's spot and it remains to be seen if he is fit for their last Suzuki Cup game against Myanmar tomorrow night. I hope so as I've been very impressed with the youngster and I'd like to see more of him at the top level of Asean football, as it's only competition of this nature, that will help him improve and mature as a goalkeeper of the highest quality.
Team-mates of Samreth Seiha in Cambodia's youth international squad that reached the semi-finals of the Asean youth championships in Brunei at the beginning of 2007 included the teenage strike-force of Khim Borey and Kouch Sokumpheak. All three are still teenagers and the experience they will have gained in the Suzuki Cup in Indonesia will be enormous. Also in that same squad were international team-mates Lay Raksmey and Sok Rithy.
Monday, December 8, 2008
The orange-red church
Sunday, December 7, 2008
Feel the pain
The Cambodia line-up: 1 Seiha (18 Mic); 2 Chanbunrith; 3 Raksmey; 4 Tiny; 7 Borey (19 Sina); 10 Sokumpheak; 11 Chan Rithy (6 Virath); 13 Narith; 14 Sovannarith; 16 El Nasa; 17 Sok Rithy. Attendance: approx 40,000.
Bare and uninviting
Dark and brooding
Another tough challenge
Light on my feet
Next on my schedule was a second visit to see the superb musical-opera Where Elephants Weep at the Chenla Theatre. I arrived just in time to take my seat before the performance began, in front of a sold-out auditorium. Such a high standard of performance professionalism combined with a musical score to delight the senses has been the hallmark of this production by John Burt and composer Him Sophy. The mix of Cambodian and American actors tell the story of a returnee who falls in love and the consequences of that love affair in song and pure theatre, not seen before in Phnom Penh. I stayed behind for a short time to chat to Dang Kosal, one of the three rapping bodyguards who inject lots of comedic dialogue into the story, and a friend who used to work at Meta House before landing the part in the opera. He performed his role with relish and is keeping his fingers crossed that the opera will get an extended tour lined up after tomorrow night's final performance. I also spoke to Vuth Chanmoly, one of the country's leading classical dancers who plays various roles in the work and to New York-based Marc de la Cruz, the actor responsible for the leading role of Dara, who was gushing in his praise for the chance to work in Cambodia and with his fellow cast members. Where Elephants Weep has been a great success story, long may it flourish and encourage other productions to follow in its wake.
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Arty-farty Bokor
Friday, December 5, 2008
Writing on the wall
The Cambodia line-up: 1 Seiha; 2 Chanbunrith; 3 Raksmey; 4 Tiny (20 Samprathna); 7 Borey (23 Piseth); 10 Sokumpheak; 11 Chan Rithy; 13 Narith (8 Saknida); 14 Sovannarith; 16 El Nasa; 17 Sok Rithy. I was caught out by the kick-off time which had been publicized as 6pm local time. In fact the game kicked off at 5pm so I missed the first twenty minutes, much to my annoyance.
The haunted Palace
Book-signing take 2
Tomorrow is another busy day with lots happening. I've got tickets for When Elephants Weep at the Chenla Theatre at 6.30pm, even though I managed to get a free invite to the VIP performance last week. I'm looking forward to seeing this remarkable show again. It has certainly raised the bar in terms of staging a professional musical opera and the sort of work that can be achieved here in Cambodia. There's been a wave of enthusiasm for the show carried along by the excellent PR juggernaught that saw the name of the opera plastered literally everywhere. I hope the arts scene in Cambodia is able to maintain and nurture this massive increase in interest from both the expat and Khmer communities.
I may not have time to see it but the documentary Seasons of Migration will be screened at the Bophana Center on Street 200 at 4pm tomorrow (Saturday). Choreographer Sophiline Cheam Shapiro, artistic director of the Khmer Arts Academy and a leading player in reviving classical dance, will be present to introduce the event.
And if you have time, get along to the Sovanna Phum show at their HQ on Street 360 at 7.30pm for a performance of their new work, Hanuman, combining large shadow puppet theatre with classical dance and orchestra. Not to be missed. Sovanna Phum are under serious threat of closure and it would be a travesty if this is allowed to happen. I urge you all to support their work by attending their shows and doing whatever you can to help them maintain this vital cultural treasure.
Flying high
Thursday, December 4, 2008
My Aussie luck
Bokor's lifeless city
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
Fast forward to Friday
Cambodia are the competition's underdogs and that will come sharply into focus in the first game against the holders and AFF Suzuki Cup favourites Singapore. Coached by two-time AFF Cup winner Radi Avramovic, the Singapore attack will be led by in-form Serbian striker 38-year-old Aleksandar Duric, six foot three inches tall, and top scorer in the recently completed S-League with 28 goals for the champions Singapore Armed Forces. He will definitely be a handful for the Cambodian defence which has been the team's weakest area in recent matches. It's interesting that Singapore operate a Foreign Sports Talent scheme where foreign-born players can get citizenship after 2 or 3 years of playing football in the S-League and are then eligible for the national team. Journeyman Duric has lived in Singapore for the last eight years, has plied his trade with fifteen different clubs including a long stint in Australia, where he also received citizenship, and represented Bosnia-Herzegovina in canoeing at the 1992 Olympics. As for Cambodia, they will be relying on homegrown players like Khim Borey and Sam El Nasa to get the goals to sink the Suzuki Cup favourites, but make no bones about it, it will be an uphill task and one of the Cup's biggest-ever upsets if Sovannara's team can secure a win.
Red Sense at CamboFest
Hot News: Due to public demand, the When Elephants Weep production will host one additional show on Thursday this week, with all tickets at $5. Be quick, it's certain to sell out within hours. Telephone Amrita on 023 220 424 for tickets.
More Hot News: I just received an invitation from the Australian Embassy to attend tomorrow's gala opening of the Aussie Film Festival here in Phnom Penh at ACE and then onto the premiere screening of the movie Lucky Miles at Cinema Lux. How nice of them to think of little old me - and I'm not even Australian. The festival will show half a dozen films at Cinema Lux over 4 days from 4-7 December, and all tickets are free.
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Sihanouk gutted
Road to Bokor
A man of passion, Kent Davis
Meta tips
Team photo
Monday, December 1, 2008
Sovannara the perfect host
Today the 22-man squad - with 4 additions to the successful qualifying group of players - had their shirts on their backs as they pushed themselves hard in training, knowing that physical fitness will be one area where they can match their opponents. Sovannara is a realist as we talked about the teams opposing Cambodia in their Group A games in Jakarta, starting with the opening match of the competition against the holders and favourites Singapore on Friday. "We were badly beaten by two of the teams in the group when we played them in Indonesia a few months ago, and Singapore won the cup last time, so we have a lot of ground to make up. But my players have trained hard for this and they want to show they have improved. It's eleven against eleven and on the day anything can happen, especially with luck on our side." Certainly spirits were high in the camp as Sovannara introduced me to the players for an impromptu photo session before they finished off their morning session with a light-hearted practice match with extra training for the losing team. A few blisters and a strapping on left-winger Chan Rithy's right knee were the only injury concerns as the team prepares to fly to Jakarta tomorrow evening. The 22-man squad will be accompanied by a team of ten officials, including head coach Sovannara and four assistant coaches, a physio and Cambodia football federation officers.
Aside from a security guard and my motodop, I was the only visitor to the National Football Centre, some 17kms west of Phnom Penh, out along Route 4 this morning. The Centre was unveiled in January 2003, built with a $400,000 grant from FIFA under their Goal Program to developing countries. Hidden a few kilometres from the main highway, it was a quiet oasis where the players were clearly enjoying their time together, even though its been just two weeks since they were all playing in the final matches of the Cambodian domestic league season. Hardly sufficient time to prepare properly for the most important tournament of their young careers. "They've all worked very hard, I'm very proud of them and I've seen great improvement over the last few months. We were a bit lucky in qualifying and I hope we will have more luck in our next three games too," said Sovannara as he handed me a football as a souvenir of my visit.